REPAIRING GAS TANK

I'd take it to a fab shop to be TIG'd together - and while they are at it - perhaps a bottom protection plate that keeps stones from denting and cutting holes. Gravel is a dickens when it spins from a tire.

Mart> THE bottom of my 1985 campers gas tank had some rust holes in it. They

Many rust holes?

Time to buy a new tank.

how much is a new tank?

"Ignoramus7409" wrote: Many rust holes?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Suggest you reread the original post: "have pulled the tank and cut out a

I have considered that as I have a friend who is highly proficient at TIG welding. He fixed my pontoon boat when it was vandalized.

Just in the very bottom, the camper didnt get any use for about 7 years and water setting in the bottom of the tank did a number on it. All the damage seems to be in an area about the size of a dinner plate. The hole I cut in it was large enough for me to inspect it and there doesnt seem to be anymore damage. There were quite a few pinholes in the effected area. I used the camper a couple of years and kept finding leaks. This year I planned to fix it once and for all. The camper is in excelent shape and only has about 24K miles on it. I did have to replace all the rubber(hoses and belts) on it due to dry rot and overhaul the carb. About all the carb really needed was a new accelerator pump.

A replacement tank will cost me about $350 USD I can get it repaired basically for free or at least trade work for it.

Jimmie

OR used. The whole tank is probably in the same shape as the area that's leaking. You fix one and another one pops off. If it was a puncture, I'd say try to fix it.

MHO.

I agree with Steve.

On Jun 1, 2:41=A0am, JIMMIE wrote: What is the best way to apply the patch. I was

Solder should work well. I would probably consider using a few sheet metal screws to hold the new metal in place. After the new plate is soldered in place, maybe take out the sheet metal screws and put small orings on them and then reinstall them.

=20 Dan

Solder on a gas tank is a BAD idea. Keep in mind that a gas tank has to handle the weight of the fuel and the G force effects on that fuel during vehicle motion.

Solder should stick well. Most gas tanks are tin plated steel.

Best repair would be a new tank.

Next best would be to cut and weld in a new steel panel. Then use a sealer inside to protect the new steel and prevent pinhole leaks from the welds. Also coat the outside of the tank with a good paint to prevent external rust.

MAKE SURE that whoever does the welding KNOWS how to weld a fuel tank.

I do not agree. A gas tank is a foot or less in height, so if you put water in a foot deep tank, the PSI would be 0.43 psi. Gasolene weighs less so the pressure would be less. And if you put in some sheet metal screws as I suggested, the sheet metal screws would be strong enough by themselves. I really suggested the sheet metal screws so there would be no movement as the solder solidified.

The g forces on the gasolene should have little effect as the piece put in is on the bottom.

Another reason for using solder is that you would not need to use a sealer as long as the panel put in is galvanized or tin plated.

Another option would be to buy some sheet rubber and use sheet metal screws to hold a panel and the sheet rubber. The screws would have to be fairly closely spaced.

Dan

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Well I started at it about 6am this morning an the job is done. I soldered an pop riveted it. There is about a 1 inch wide solder joint all the way around the perimeter and a double row of pop rivets spaced about an inch apart. The rows are staggered. I also tinned and fluxed each rivet before intalling them, what a PITA. Ill probably sit around and drink a few beers for the rest of the day and rig up away to pressure test it. I figured if solder can hold a radiator together it can surely hol dthis gas tank patch in.

Jimmie

wrote: (clip) Another option would be to buy some sheet rubber and use sheet metal screws to hold a panel and the sheet rubber. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Neoprene yes. Rubber no.

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I got the tank put back in last Wednesday and that was a real pain. Along with pitting the tank back I modified the fuel systme to to use an electric fuel pump mounted near the tank and added a couple of extra filters. I added one between the tank and pump and one where the old was was located. I also had to add a pressure regulator also at the origional location of the pump

Jimmie

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After completing the repair I took the van on a trip up in the mountains for a week of camping. I did notice a tiny bit of fuel oozing out of one of the pop rivets otherwise no problems. The leak appears to be so small I am debating with myself if it even needs repairing. There is just a wet spot smaller than the rivet head and it doesnt drip. I may drill out hte solder in the rivet then tap it and put a screw in in it. Who knows it may be nice to have a way to drain the tank one day or an easy way to get a little gas out of the tank.

Jimmie

(...)

Either way, please do repair that. You'll be glad you did. Gasoline is gawdawful slippery.

--Winston