I realize this is probably asked often, but I will continue nonetheless.
I am in the market for a new TIG machine. I am not a newbie (about 10 years experience), so I understand what to look for in a machine. I found this old thread (which I have attached below) while doing some research, and it touched on several issues that are related to my upcoming acquisition.
Here's the deal: I learned on a 1981 Hobart 250HF. I never used it a single time in AC mode, as all of my work has been steel or stainless steel, with the majority being stainless steel (.050 through .5). This machine had the sweet old cast alumimium foot pedal and the three taps for power output (5-310 amps). This machine had gusto and good range and control. Keep in mind, I never had any other experience on any other machines. Why did I sell it? Good question... at the time, I was planning on picking up a small inverter and keeping with the times. I also thought that having a machine that could run on 110V would be pretty convenient for field work. Well, I still haven't picked up that inverter, but have been using my father's Hobart Tigmate (aka Miller Econotig) in the interim. Yes, it gets the job done, but the short leads and the air cooled torch and the limited range will not work out forever. I need a new machine.
My options: I have an opportunity to make a trade for a 1993 Syncrowave 351, purchase a used, recent model Maxstar 200DX, purchase a new Dynasty 200DX, and I've even seen a good price for a used Dynasty (and Maxstar) 300DX. I have heard great reviews on Thermal Arcs inverters, however, so I am considering one of these. Oh yeah, I can also pick up a circa 2000 Lincoln Invertec 200 AC/DC machine.
What I need: Programmable pulse. Good arc starting. Good low end DC.
What would be nice: 110V as optional input power, as I occasionally do field work. If I invest in a larger 220V machine, I would continue to rent a portable welder as needed however, and it is really no big deal. Bottom line, I'm tired of shopping around, I want a good machine, and am ready to make a purchase. I make my living making things out of metal, so the machine will be used often.
So, who's got some experience with any of these units? I'd love to hear it... soon.
Thanks in advance, Smyths
Here is the old thread for reference, (I'm willing to bet you guys are still around):
Needing opinion on TIG welder. All 10 messages in topic - view as tree
From: Limey - view profile Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am Not yet rated
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Hi, I am hoping to get some advice or suggestions about what would be the best kind of TIG welder for my application, bearing in mind that I am a 'wannabe' at this point, not a 'weldor'. My plan is to build bicycle frames, using .035 wall 4130 tubing, so I don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material.
Cost is a consideration but it is not the bottom line. I'm 59, so I don't see as well as I used to and will need all the help I can get from the machine.
At this point the Miller Maxstar 91 is looking pretty good but I spoke to a couple of local dealers, neither of whom carried this model and one told me that what I really needed was the EconoTIG, the other said the Syncrowave 180. (I don't believe either of them)
In the 'options' for the Maxstar they list a 'TIG pulsing control' and a 'High frequency arc starter'. Since I am a newbie, that goes right over my head.
If anyone could offer me an opinion here, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks.
Lewis. "Benbrook's Best 'Bent Bicyclist"
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From: Roger Duncan - view profile Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am Not yet rated
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They are giving you good advice just not telling you why. You are talking about welding thin aluminum for that you need a machine that puts out square wave ac current or the equivalent term from that manufacture. From Miller Syncrowave machines put out square wave AC. The machines you wanted put out DC that doesn't have the desired cleaning effect when welding aluminum. You can weld aluminum with a dc welding machine but that process I believe is for thick material. In December aluminum welding was a big topic at this news group.
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From: Limey - view profile Date: Fri, Jan 28 2000 12:00 am Not yet rated
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Hi, Roger, I think you might have misread my post.
I don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material. machine to be able to weld some 3/16" material.
Back to the bike frames. For 0.035" steel tubing you will need a machine with better low end control than the Miller Econotig can deliver. I know, I owned one for 5 years. The other 2 machines in this category , the Miller Syncrowave 180 SD and the Lincoln SW 175 have better control and features, but don't have the really fine control or optional features of either the inverter machines or the bigger transformer machines. I think you do need to go to an inverter machine or a larger 220v machine. Quite honestly I have welded just about everything with TIG and I have used over 2 dozen different machines. These are features that you should look at.
Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work. A thumb wheel or thumb slider can be used, but a foot control allows more precise adjustment as you go.
Lift Arc start - If you are going for a DC only Inverter then lift-arc start is the way to go. It gives excellent control over arc starting especially in tight spaces. Lift-arc start actually makes a thumb wheel or thumb slider much more practical since you are less likely to zap yourself, as I have done with a thumb wheel and high frequency start.
Pulse Unit - this pulses the amperage of the arc and can be adjusted for: pulses per second, percentage of background amperage ( in other words: the low end of the pulse is set as a percentage of the max amperage), and the percentage of on-time ( these means how long the pulse says at the top of the pulse cycle). For thin metal a pulse unit is a godsend.
Example: I have been teaching my students how to weld bandsaw blades, and the Syncrowave 351 at school has a pulser and digital readout that make this very easy. Bandsaw blades range from 0.020" to 0.045" thick. For a 1" x 0.035" bandsaw blade for our cutoff bandsaw, I set the machine for 25 amps (digital readout), and the pulser for 2 pulses per sec., with 20% on time (20% of 1/2 sec. = 0.1 sec.) and background amperage at 50%(25 amps). Slowly walk the arc down the seam in a straight line while feeding in some 0.035" 316L filler rod. The pulser does most of the work, and the weld bead goes all the way through the blade. Smooth off the weld bead with a flapper disc, reclamp and anneal to blue either with the TIG or a propane torch. (I have the plans for the blade welder clamp jig if any are interested)
Digital Readout - I can't speak highly enough for this feature, especially when trying to set up a repeatable procedure for production work. You need to be able to set the machine exactly the same each time to gaurantee results.
High-Frequency Start - If you ever get interested in making aluminum bicycle frames you will need high frequency output for AC welding of aluminum. Yes you can weld aluminum with DCEN, but it is not for precision work, and burns very hot (it also requires a helium gas shield)
You have not stated whether or not there are elecrical power limitations to your shop. Also you have not set a maximum cost.
The best machine for what you are doing is the Syncrowave 350 (transformer - big) at about $3000 or the Dynasty DX (inverter - small) at about $4500. If this is high on $ then I recommend eiher one of the smaller Inverters, or my machine, the Sycrowave 250. The Syncrowave 250 ( or Thermal Arc Tigwave 250) is a great machine. It will weld anything, has excellent arc control, and while it doesn't have Lift-arc start , it does have an excellent high frequency unit, all for under $2000. You can add an inline pulser unit for $300. A water cooled torch will run about $100 and then you have to decide if you want to make a water cooler (under $100), run shop sink water( like I do for abou $30), or buy a water cooler ($300-$500). if you are never going to weld anything thicker than 3/16" you could stay with an air-cooled torch, but for small work, these can be a bit cumbersome. Water cooled torches are smaller and lighter. I do however have a tiny air-cooled 50 amp TIG torch by Weldcraft that is excellent for micro work. So if you want to do precision work with an air-cooled torch, I would recommend buying 2 torches. A 200 amp air-cooled torch for general and heavy work, and then a smaller 100 amp (or less) torch for precision work.
Thermal Dynamics makes probably the best inverter based TIG power sources on the market, but Miller also has some nice units.
Just my opinions.
-- STAGESMITH - Custom Metal Fabrication - Renton, WA, US
"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind." William Shakespear
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From: Ted Edwards - view profile Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am Not yet rated
show > don't need a machine that does stick or aluminum but I do need the
Willing to bet you will before long. Welding is addictive. Besides, wait 'til you see what you can make out stuff ordinary mortals have to throw away.
Get yourself an auto-darkening helmet and a 2 diopter magnifying insert
lens for it. Trust me - I know. I'm 65 and have always been far sighted. Focusing close up does not get easier with age. I have a Selstrom helmet with adjustable shade and sensitivity. Beauty!
I've had my Thermal Dynamics since '93 or '94 and it's great. I gather
this is a hobby thing for you so don't restrict yourself. Versatility is all. Ted
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From: Ted Edwards - view profile Date: Sat, Jan 29 2000 12:00 am Not yet rated
show > Foot control - Nothing beats this for precision work.
precise adjustment as you
This is one of the few things I disagree with Ernie on. I have a torch
mounted slider and find it much handier than a foot pedal.
want to make a water
This is the other. I have a C-K air cooled torch and don't miss the hassle of a water cooler. I've welded a fair bit of 1/2" plate and it hasn't been a problem. I need a break before my torch does. :-)
I'm in violent agreement!! :-) Ted
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From: Ernie Leimkuhler - view profile Date: Sun, Jan 30 2000 12:00 am Not yet rated
show > Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
Well I would feel better about it if I had a slider, but mine is a thumbwheel and is less useful. I use it about 2 times a year, so it is unlikely I am going to shell out another $110 for a slider.
Well Ted I do have a tiny air-cooled 50 amp TIG torch that works great, but I do too much heavy aluminum to deal with an air cooled torch for most work. Aluminum really sucks the life out of a TIG and the AC arc puts half the heat back into the torch. That can make a torch get damn warm after a short while. My econotig came with an air-cooled 150 amp torch and I stuck with it for 2 years before figuring out how to hook up a water cooled torch. Air-cooled torches are better for low amperage and DC welding. I also occasionally hook up my 350 amp water-cooled torch and weld 1/2" aluminum plate, and I can't imagine doing that with an air-cooled torch.
Now if only they would jump into this small transformer TIG market. It's always nice to have options.
-- STAGESMITH - Custom Metal Fabrication - Renton, WA, US
"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind." William Shakespear