Harbor Freight hammers

Ron Reil wrote:

Do you have any pictures that show the correct shape of a handle? I'm a really visual guy & I'm having trouble figuring out where the bulges should be.
Thanks much, and good luck with the hand!
- ken
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I received a lot of e-mails, and there are some postings here also, about the shape of the hammer handles I use. If you will look at the following image,
http://www.reil1.net/hammers.jpg , it shows a variety of my hammers, all with the same basic handle design. I form every one by feel, and no two are identical, which is probably a good thing, because switching hammers changes any potential pressure points. The hammer that is second from the left is the offending hammer that did all the damage to my hand, and that is now properly shaped. It is a Chinese hammer, and is one of the hammers I give to my apprentices. I do not have all of my hammer handles shaped this way, only those that I tend to use for long periods of time, or to use with a lot of force. The Repousse' hammers on the right can easily be in my hand for 8-9 hours in a day. The Peddinghaus hammer in the center has a new looking handle in it, even though I have had it for three years, because I simply have not used that hammer like I thought I would. I bought two of them of different weights, and have not found them to be hammers that I will normally choose for a task. The Ferrier's hammer on the far left is my favorite hammer, and the one I use more than any other for general forge work. The hammer to the right of the Peddinghaus is a converted ball peen. It has a 45 degree angled peen on the ball end (hard to see), and the other end I formed into a square shape. I use that hammer a lot too, as well as several others. BIG ball peen hammers are wonderful to forge into hammers of this type, and are far more useful for everyday forging when reshaped like this than their original shape, although you do want a full assortment of normal ball peens in your rack too. Most ball peens in my opinion have too small a radius for the ball on the end. I like to reform them to have a flatter curve in many cases. When you are dishing the backs of leaves, a flatter curve does a much nicer job if the curvature isn't extreme. And of course, dish them hot on the end grain of some kind of hardwood log. I make wood anvil tools that are simply sections of Madrona tree with a hole drilled in the bottom, and a 1" square rod driven in to allow it to fit the hardy hole on my anvil. I have four anvils in my shop and two of them are on removable casters so that I can roll them over under my exhaust hood for work such as hot dishing of leaves, otherwise the shop would be full of smoke.
If you are interested in my shop layout or tools, go to my Shop at a Glance page, http://www.reil1.net/glance.shtml . I have lots of images there of all parts of my shop and my tooling. It is there, as well as my Shop Construction Page, which is linked from the Glance page, to give beginning smiths ideas that may be of value to them for tooling, general shop layout, and specialty features to consider when building a shop.
Yours,
Ron
--


Golden Age Forge
http://www.reil1.net/gallery.shtml
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This link doesn't work for me. Is it my system's fault, or are others having problems, too? Gary Brady Austin, TX
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Works fine for me .. - GWE
Gary Brady wrote:

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Gary Brady wrote:

I got it too. Al
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.comNOSPAM (Gary Brady) Spaketh Thusly:

Worked fine for me last night, and I just tried it again - still good from here.
-- Bill H. Member VRWC
Molon Labe!
[my "reply to" address is real]
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WOrked for me just now. Friday night 926pm Pacific out of time zone.
Martin
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Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer snipped-for-privacy@pacbell.net
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Fine here yesterday and now. It's you or AOL.
Ted
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Gary Brady wrote:

worked for me, check your end.
Charly
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