HELP! Tough to solve well problem.

One of my customers has a well problem. The well is 150 feet deep and has never had a pump installed. He had it drilled and then ended
up noy building so the well sat for several years unused. He sold the property and the well needs to work for thye sale to go through. The problem is that somebody vandalized the well by dumping a bunch of branches into it. He wanted a harpoon, a sharply pointed spike really, built to stab into the wood. So I did that and he was able to get one large piece out. He thought it was only the one piece but discovered that there were even more pieces of wood down the well. How many is unclear. Even though the harpoon was able to stick well enough for the first piece it is not able to stick into the other pieces well enough to pull them up. He now wants to try using an augur to drill into the wood. Really, to screw into the wood. Hopefully the augur will hold well enough to pull the wood out of the well. I am dubious about this working well. The augur will be welded into a piece rod tapped 1/2-13. This will in turn be threaded onto a piece of all-thread. Which will in turn be attached to another piece of all-thread, and so on until he has 150 feet of all-thread down the well casing. There will be plywood discs at various places along the drill string to keep the drill centered in the casing and to prevent whipping. Getting a well drilling rig out to the site would be hard to do as as well as being expensive. This is because the well was drilled at least a decade ago and the access would need to be cleared again. My customer has time because of lost work due to the Covid virus. His funds are likewise limited. So, anybody have any other ideas? Like maybe some magic solution that could be poured down the well that would dissolve the wood but then could be pumped out completely so that the well would not be contaminated? Anyway, thanks for reading, Cheers, Eric
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On 28/10/2020 17:26, snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:

Can you fill the well with water to the top so hopefully the wood floats up to within easy reach.
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On Wed, 28 Oct 2020 19:34:35 +0000
<snip>

I was thinking the same. If you can get a pipe or hose down near the bottom that doesn't interfere with the debris coming out I would go that route. See if you can "flush" it out of there
Also if you search on well drilling fishing tools, like this:
https://html.duckduckgo.com/html/?q=well%20drilling%20fishing%20tools&kd=-1
or interesting site here:
https://inspectapedia.com/water/Well_Retrieval_Tool_Designs.php
It may give you some more ideas...
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Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote in message

As I'm sure you know (:-)), there is no magic wood dissolving solution because if there were it would be used by the ton for stump removal :-). I don't think an augur is going to be that successful. First, you are making chips in the well. Second, what's to keep the wood from spinning so the augur doesn't screw in and bite? If the wood is floating that will be extra hard. Also, how will you tie each piece of threaded rod together so that they don't come undone while you are trying to get the augur to bite? Seems like a lot of work for each insertion and removal of your tool.
I think some kind of pincers would be best. I'm thinking of something like a piece of pipe that just fits in the casing with a ring of large barbed fishhooks facing inwards so if it is pushed over the end of a piece of wood the wood will be grabbed. You could put a circle of three to five of these at the largest diameter, then back up an inch or two into the pipe and put another ring of barbs with a smaller diameter, then back up another inch or two and repeat. That way small wood pieces just get pushed deeper into the shark's mouth before they get grabbed. Extra fancy would be to put pivots on the barb supports and an arm on the top of each one with a rope to the surface so when you pull on the rope the barbs pivot towards the center of the bore and bite into whatever is there. Sort of an active version of the passive shark's mouth.
You could make the biting section from iron pipe that just fits into the well so it is heavy, and weld a cross bar at the top end to attach a rope. Length is up to you, trading off more weight for more impact and more work to lift back out. Then lower it part way and then drop it the rest of the way down the well and let it smack into the wood to get a grip. Get a winch for the rope so you don't wear your arms out. I'm assuming you have some access, like an ATV, so you can carry stuff in and mount the winch on the ATV. Rig a tripod with a pulley over the well, or suspend a pulley from a rope tied to two trees. With the rope over the pulley you could even just tie the rope to the ATV and drive away and not even use a winch to lift the tool out :-).
If you have one of those tiny inverter welders and a small generator (or other power source) take it with you along with a stock of barbs, just in case. Not that any of my creations ever fail in the field :-) :-).
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Carl Ijames
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wrote in message
... So, anybody have any other ideas? ...Cheers, Eric
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On Wed, 28 Oct 2020 10:26:13 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:

The allthread is a non-starter. Use minimum 1/2" water pipe coupled together with threaded couplers. Last one I made I used a 1/2 inch hex drive bit extention as the drive, cut inhalf with the one end welded to a coupling on the top to chuck into the big slow 1/2 inch drill-motor and the other end welded to a coupling to go onthe bottom to hold the bit. I used it to drill a 2 inch hole through 2X6 joists going in 12 or 15 feet. In your case I'd weld a 1/2 inch or larger lag bolt onto the bottom coublong and drive it into the wood with the drill then pull the pipe up out of the well just like you would pull a submersible pump.
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On 10/28/2020 7:25 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:

Your customer needs to look at the well history that the state will have a record of, probably on-line.
The well casing will not go to the bottom of the well drilling. The wood is likely to be below the well casing and will hang up if you do get it attached to some fastener.
The only real solution is to pay a well service company to pull the casing and re-drill the well to remove all the wood. Then add the liner. Money well spent!
Paul
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On Wednesday, October 28, 2020 at 1:26:17 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote :

My thought is to make something like a strainer. Has to be smaller than th e well casing. in diameter. and pulled up with a cable. The idea is to lower it , have it be pointy on the bottom end so it will push the wood to one side going down, and have a bunch of .250 holes to let it strain the water when pulled up. I would expect it would have to be used a good many times. But should be cheap to try .
Dan
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DCaster wrote in message on googlegroups.com...
My thought is to make something like a strainer. Has to be smaller than the well casing. in diameter. and pulled up with a cable. The idea is to lower it , have it be pointy on the bottom end so it will push the wood to one side going down, and have a bunch of .250 holes to let it strain the water when pulled up. I would expect it would have to be used a good many times. But should be cheap to try .
Dan
========================How about stainless steel treble fish hooks on a doubled line, so the line can be retrieved if the hook jams? The hook could be spaced away from the wall with a sanitized bottle brush, sponge etc.
https://eco-rentalsolutions.com/product/other-equipment/well-inspection/well-vu-systems-well-inspection-camera/
You could have the water tested to see if the wood really did contaminate it.
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On Mon, 2 Nov 2020 06:40:12 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

I'd have the well tested =thoroughly= to ensure that wood was the only waste thrown down there. The same moron could have shat down it daily, too.
I think I'd try an electric fishing pole (ocean style) and a couple ounces of slim weights with a large treble hook for the wood. Drop 'er down, hook on, and electrically reel it back up.
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