when people have steel in the shops on the racks they paint the end
with a colour indicating the alloy. they typically write on the colour
the batch number and the diameter.
I've noticed two very widely dispersed sellers of steel that indentify
S1214 free machining steel with pink ends.
seems more than a coincidence.
is there actually a standard industry practise for the identification
of alloys with colour on the rod ends? what is the colour code?
I colour my stock with the same colours that Macready's (Niagara La Salle)
use. I even have a nice wall chart that I blagged off them.
This is a good standard for me to follow, since I buy nearly all my steel from
A common standard would be nice, but it would cause a lot of pain for almost
everyone while it was being introduced. I'm still traumatized by the European
harmonization of electrical cable colours... No-one had a meaningful system
except us, and we had to comply with their weird prejudices!
Widely dispersed is not a real indicator of standardisation. They both
may well be buying from the same supplier.
The only reliable color/alloy reference is the one you get from the
guy that painted the ends of the bar.
Yes. White paint forming numbers. Whenever I get any (known) non-mild
steel, I immediately white-paint-mark the bar in 3 or 4 places with SAE
or AISI marking, ie: W1, 1045.
Other than that, no.
Stealth Pilot wrote:
There is not only *a* standard -- but a different one per
steel seller. :-)
For your example of S1214 (Which I presume to be similar to
12L14, Ledloy), the choices in the Jorgensen steel catalog are:
Carbon Bars & Strip
Leaded Grade A (Ledloy A, La-Led) Brown & White
Leaded Grade B (Ledloy B, Super La-Led) Green
Leaded Grade AX (Ledloy AX) Pink & Purple
==================================================================== Looking for just plain pink with no other color, I find:
Aircraft Alloy Bars
4130 Normalized Pink
And 4130 is *far* from "free machining S1214" (which is probably
a version of one of the LedLoy alloys above).
I have seen posted other colors from other vendors, but I don't
have their catalogs to check.
If you want a standard -- pick the standard of your usual
vendor, and if you get any steel from other sources, re-paint that steel
to match your usual vendor's standard.
Email: < firstname.lastname@example.org> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
On Aug 21, 4:11 pm, email@example.com (DoN. Nichols) wrote:
Speaking of 4130...
I have a sample pack of 4130 N tube & rod from Aircraft Spruce to play
with, ie practice threading and TIG welding. The lathe is old & worn
and I have trouble with carbide chipping, so I'll likely machine it
with HSS and brushed-on cutting oil. Any advice?
Yup! Espescially if the carbide tools were of the brazed variety.
My advice is this. "It's about bloody time!"
High speed steel works very well, and is quite forgiving. The carbide
(brazed) tools can save your butt when you have a bit of work hardened
stainless to deal with, or similar, but generally need to be ground to
get decent performance out of them. Grinding a decent edge onto brazed
carbide is tougher than getting a decent edge on HSS, IMO, and requires
a far larger investment in wheels for the grinder as well.
Take a good look at the thread form diagrams for the threads you are
cutting. More like than not, there is supposed to be a flat on the tip
of the tool. This flat makes the thread turn out the correct shape, and
makes the tool even tougher to destroy. Both good things!
Get a decent magnifying glass to look at your tool tip with! A good
quality thread gage is a real boon too! Cheap thread gages are mostly
punch-cut or sheared, and have shitty edges to compare to. Tough to get
a nice clean, straight line when you don't have a decent straight side
on the gage. Good thread gages are pretty cheap, and they don't wear
One of the things I show guys in my shop, is to grind a long straight
30 degree line from the front left corner of the tool blank. The 30
degree grind in the other direction then is a very short, easy touch
against the wheel. It makes it quite simple to cut up to a shoulder,
when you do not have to grind a great bloody hack out of the bit to
clear it. It also makes for a very fast return to working after a crash,
as most of the tooth form is there already.
I have, on occasion, ground threading tools using one of the existing
straight sides of the tool bit (just add some releif) and a 60 degree
grind across the end. It has to sit at 30 degrees (tool bit is aligned
with the compound, rather than at 90 deg to the axis of the work), but
Sharp sharp sharp! Sharp tools cut well!
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.