I posted this in the woodworking group and there was no reply.
By reading the ads one would believe that the MAXX is a better grinder,
and maybe it is. I was thinking of the setup between right and left
cutter grinding and how many resettings you have to do in the course of
sharpening a chain. I have used the standard oregon type, and they
will make a good sharp chain, with only one adjustment for RH and LH.
Any comments from you experts? What about that hydraulic clamp? Well
made or something else to break on the day after warrenty expires?
I have not used this grinder but it looks very close to my Windsor
grinder . You do not need extra setups on mine . Set the angle for one
side , do all the teeth facing that way . Reset and do the opposite side
with the grinder running in the opposite rotation . At least on mine
that is a flip of the switch . I honestly don't bother with it . I did
at one time help some competition guys run tests on angles but for my
own use I hand sharpen in the field as needed . Here is what I have .
As an aside to this question ..........
I have two dull chains already for my chainsaw. I bought a Craftsman file
sharpening jig that clamps on top of the bar.
I am considering making a stand from an old rim so I don't have to work with
this in my lap, and to be able to disassemble the saw, work on it, clean it,
Has anyone here ever made a stand, or do you just sit it up on the work
bench? I know for blowing the crud out of it and washing it off, I'd like
to take it outside in the dirt rather than on my shop floor.
When I was a little boy, we cut about 1 cord of wood per week to heat our
Dad did all the maintance on the saw in the field. He took a large log, cut
into it almost the depth of the bar, and let the saw hang.
So... use it, have two sharp chains, and go cut some wood.
Your lap? Sheesh.
Perhaps you've over-complicated just a wee tad.
You have a chainsaw. Thus, you presumably have logs. Set it on top of
one. If you are actually tearing it apart, a workbench that does not
mind getting oily is useful. Once you've torn it apart enough to get any
sawdust, etc that's not easily removable with the saw assembled off, you
can easily enough walk out the door with the part full of guck and an
air hose - or you can avoid blowing dirty guck in places you'll regret
it later by simply scraping it off with a stick, into the trash. In
either case, any sort of saw stand will rather rapidly be left holding
some irrelevant part of the saw (there just are not that many parts to
grab, and when you take the saw apart, not much is left attached to any
of them.) Furthermore, moving a stand outside is going to be a lot more
bother than carrying the entire saw, or any part of the saw...
If you are sharpening it, the top of a log, or the tailgate of a pickup
both work fine. Same also works fine for normal maintenance such as
swapping chains and bars. It's a not-very-complicated tool for cutting
wood, and does not require a huge support apparatus for daily operations.
That's fine, but unless you're extremely proficient at sharpening saws
(which most aren't) take your chains in to be professionally sharpened
when they start cutting crooked. Don't forget to file the rakers as
needed. A good saw shop quality sharpening grinder is going to cost
some money, don't be fooled by the cheap knock-offs, they're a waste
of time and money.
Folks who make a living with chainsaws do all of the needed
maintenance out in the woods. If you're too far from your PU
tailgate, just do it on a log.
Run a tank of fuel through it, remove the air filter and clean it and
the built up gunk inside of the case/cover. Refill with fuel and bar
oil. Adjust the chain tension. Touch up the chain with a file as
needed, repeat as necessary. Total down time ~5 min between
tankfulls. Install an extra, pre-sharpened chain as needed.
After the days work is done, do a final cleaning, and top off the
fluids. Resharpen your chains when you get back home for the next
days work. I've always got 1/2 a dozen freshly sharpened chains at
the ready. Filing them correctly is an art, one loggers take
seriously. You don't need a fancy stand.
My uncle was logger in the woods of NH, since retired. His
saw sharpenning stand was a maybe 2' long log, cut to
about a 1' square.
He hollowed the center to make it lighter, so that it looked
like 2 solid ends held apart by 4 maybe 2x2 or 3x3 corner
posts. One of the sections he cut out of the middle was
cleaned up and also hollowed out (maybe 15" tall?) but
with only two posts, to be used a stool, and was stored back
inside. Threw the whole thing in the chain tray of the truck.
Might be a little awkward for what you want, but for him, the
materials were what was at hand. I know he also used
stumps when away from the truck.
My personal take on it is anything that will put it at a more
comfortable height for you is probably a good idea.
Clamp the middle of the bar in a regular vice , so the chain will still
rotate . Sharpen away . Hand sharpening is really not that hard , I have
taught hundreds of people to do it . Just keep the angles and teeth
length as even as you can . Make sure on chisel tooth chain the tip is
needle sharp with no shiny spot end on . Get a guide to keep the depth
gages ( about a buck ) at the right height . File them about every third
sharpening . Use a file the next size smaller when the chain has worn
down to about the last third . Always wear leather gloves while
sharpening , I have seen some really deep cuts from a minor slip . No
need to look at this as complicated , it isn't . Compared to the stuff
people here do , learning to sharpen a chain will be a piece of cake . Luck
wrote: (clip) don't be fooled by the cheap knock-offs,
they're a waste of time and money. (clip)
The one I bought (Nick the Grinder) on sale at Harbor Freight works just
fine. Two of my friends borrowed it, and each ended up buying them also.
BTW, HF has a house brand version of Nick the Grinder on sale right
now--with the 20% extra discount coupon, it's only $40.