Anyone know anything about such a unit? I hope I have the initials
right (it's not in front of me). The motor is non-operational, easily
replaceable, but before I go firing it up, I'd like to know if it needs
to be lubricated (no obvious places to do this). When I turn the pulley
by hand, and more so in one direction then the other, it pops or farts
lol. I take it this is a good sign.
it's a small compressor. The compressor proper is about 10" tall, 6"
diameter. The motor does nothing. I can bolt a new motor on, but before
I fire it up I want to perform any necessary maintenance. I plan to use
it for cleaning, and airbrushing. It's probably noisy though.
like I said, I'll probably just toss the motor. Not sure if it had
capacitors or not, but I'll check that. I have other motors readitly
available. I was led to believe that this would be a standard 1725 rpm
or whatever. What do you mean by "slow"?
I'll check it for the oil plugs. Not likely a unit of this size would
generate enough pressure when connected to an air gun to say clean out
old electronic power supplies and whatnot?
Is the popping/farting a good sign?
Hi Chism, I just stumbled upon a W.R.Brown V type of air compressor today also.
It turns over by hand and is a oil less type of unit. If you can't find any oil
plugs on the housing then your,s is oil less too. I'm gonna run a 3450 RPM one
and a half horse motor on it, should be interesting :)
The brand is unimportant. I assume that if it is old, that it is
a piston compressor with reed valves. Most of these had 2
cylinders side by side, a reed plate on top, and an oil sump in
the bottom. The crank was driven by a large, heavy combination
fan/flywheel turned by a slow RPM motor. There should be a round
sight glass or a plug about 2" off the bottom and another one
lower. This is where the oil is splashed onto the crank bearings
by a dipper blade. The bottom plug is to drain the crankcase, the
upper plug is the fill line.
The reason many are asking you about the motor, is that it is very
possible that the capacitor is out. The motor that was on it
should have one or two "lumps" on the outside of the case. The
high voltage capacitors that are in these lumps typically cost
less than $10 and are easy to replace. If it just hums, make sure
you are plugging it into the correct voltage. Most of these
required 220V, some could be wired either way. Check the motor
plate, a 220 wound motor will just hum with 110 (but it won't hum
long). If you have to replace the motor make sure about rotation.
The flywheel should have a direction arrow on the casting.
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
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