rcm - productivity SMAW 6013 vs 7018

<snip>

I hear yah! Been using my springers the past several years to take vermin...

Airgun World for Feb you might enjoy perusing:

A lot of new stuff of late. Jim Chapman article too, he's here in the US.

I wish more experienced folk could step in.

No it's not that simple. How do I start?!

7018's need a very stable exact "burn" which fairly much means only well-prepared joints with exact fit-up and full-length burn of the rods. All of this plus starts / restarts are very specific with 7018. 6013 - essentially it will tolerate all the things you do to keep it running on a very variable job - waving the rod around, varying arc-length, extinguishing the arc and restriking heat is building up too much, etc.

Is that enough to convey - there is no simple rule?

Rich Smith

---------------------------------

Actually I preferred 7014 over 6013 before the night class instructor convinced me to learn 7018. I have enough portable hoisting equipment to position all stick welds horizontal, enough in fact to lift and move small buildings and two ton oak logs.

Alright , you guys are into some serious airgunning . I'm a piker , got a Daisy Powerline 880 which is OK I guess for an entry level beginner . What I need , because my eyes are as old as the rest of me , is a decent 3-9x scope for less than an arm and a leg . I've got a POS 5 bucks at a yard sale scope on it now . Won't focus on the target and the parallax is ridiculous . The main task of this unit is to kill cowbirds before they can foul the nests of the pretty birds with their eggs - and to control a couple of species that think my bees are there for their snacks . I currently have 1" rings on the rifle .

My first "decent" airgun was a Daisy 880. The 880 is a smooth bore, but mine came with a rifled tube. When I sent it to Daisy to be resealed back in the day they didn't reseal it. They sent me a different gun. I was not happy. The 881 was the version with a rifled bore. Round nose shuttle c*ck style pellets tend to be the most accurate, but rifling still makes a big difference unless you destroy the rifling by shooting copper washed steel BBS. The flat nose (diablo style) pellets aren't bad at short range, but you get much past 7 yards and that goes away.

I killed a lot of vermin raiding the grain shed with my 880 before my dad finally patched the holes in it. I still have one, but I don't use it much.

I did just (several months ago) reseal my Crosman Model 1 1st variant, but I haven't finished putting it back together.

I like 7018's and in general prefer them. Short arc yes. The only shield they have is the CO2 from the CaCO3 decomposing in the arc. Well apart from water vapour if there is water in the coating...

"Well casings" - sounds inherently "very 7018" to me.

7018's assertively fuse - they are not deeply penetrative like 6010, but they certainly flow in well. Only itemise one of many of the reasons 7018's to me are possibly the nicest to use.

• academic...

• if you read the Standard(s) for hydrogen in welds and apply the charts / graphs and numbers you'd see the point about inappropriate prioritisation when it's medium or better quality weldable structural steel and the thickness is not more than 12mm (1/2").

Welding is "on the backburner" for me at the moment. But "MIller forum" hint is good and appreciated.

Thanks for the rounds conversation. I've never met or heard of 22 WMR. But got through loads of 22 LR. Side arms USA, rifles UK. Pennies a shot. Good for getting the basics in-order. Stating the obvious.

Thanks for the rounds conversation. I've never met or heard of 22 WMR. But got through loads of 22 LR. Side arms USA, rifles UK. Pennies a shot. Good for getting the basics in-order. Stating the obvious.

--------------------------

I had to check if the .22 was included in "African Rifles and Cartridges", written by a famous elephant hunter who favored the huge double rifles.

Surprise!, it is, and he mentions another hunter taking up to zebra with it. "I would happily undertake to walk thru from Cape Town to Cairo armed with nothing but a scope-sighted .22 Rim-Fire and a powerful hand gun, and I am quite confident I would not go hungry."

This one has a rifled bore ... I think it's capable of much better accuracy than I'm seeing if I had better optics on it . Interesting story , when our oldest was 12 we got him one just like this one . While out in the back yard shooting it he managed to shoot the window out of a car parked across the fence . So he shot 2 more out just to make sure it was him ...

I have one of these BSA Optics AR39X40AO Rifle Scopes I bought a few years ago. Haven't gotten around to putting in on anything yet:

When it arrived I looked it over, seemed to be decent enough for the price. Adjustable parallax is nice for airgun distances. That's about the least expensive scope I've seen with AO and I would take a chance on. There are some similar models for around the same price:

I've an old Tasco 4x40 with AO on the Diana 48 Springer and a Leapers 4x32AO on the big Hatsan 155 Torpedo. I don't like the Leapers. It works okay, nice mil-dot reticule but the eye relief and optic edges aren't so good. The BSA was going to replace it but it will probably go on a new Cometa Fusion Premier Star I picked up...

Folk - you know your optics and are off on that path. Advice solicited. For nautical / yachting and coastal hiking - a monocular. The Monocular you have is better than the better binoculars / telescope in the drawer at home... There's often binoculars in the cockpit of a yacht anyway and you can adjust them for your eyes while you are at the helm / using them. What the monocular needs:

• good magnification - >= 12X otherwise it's barely worth using them

• gathers light to still see in low light beneficial

• clarity / sharp image

• no (minimal) chromatic and other aberrations What it does not need:

• wide field of vision - you are looking at a small object in a big seascape

• close focus - you are always looking minimum hundred metres away More explanation: With a monocular, given you are in a seascape with its single defined horizon, there's a trick where the horizon through the monocular lines-up with the horizon the unaided eye sees. Then what you see through the monocular is a magnified duplication of what your unaided eye sees straight-ahead. eg. if it's a yacht, your mind knows the close large yacht full of detail is a repeat of the little spec just to its Left Hand Side in the overall seascape - but your eyes are accepting one continuous scene. (benefit of firearms training in the US - had a firm taskmaster who had me from the start both acquiring the sights and keeping scanning all around)

Need opposite of wide field of vision - want a small inset in your unaided eye's overall - even "close" would be less than 3deg of angle (say 10m vessel at 200m)

Ideas? I have a 10X monocular which fits in a pocket but although there are worse it isn't notably sharp as you'd be singing praises about and there's lurid chromatic aberrations messing up what you see.

<snip>

A young healthy human eye has around 4.5mm opening available through the wide open iris. As we age this value decreases. So 10x50mm binocs will pass 5mm to your eye. Anything more than this is of no use and this is even 1mm than you can probably make use of...

My favorite binoculars are 8x42, have roll down eyecups (I wear glasses) and will focus to ~5ft. I need that close focus for butterflies, birds, frogs... stuff that isn't so big to begin with and you want to observe in more detail...

So for you I would recommend 10x40 minimum (40/10=4mm exit pupil) if you wish full light gathering potential. Problem with 10x is that it is hard to hold steady in the hand. For that 8x is about the max. You're a smart guy though and could probably still get higher powers to work by cheating in some way to steady the image ;-)

There are a LOT of airgun stores/shops in the UK. Most sell monoculars and such of varying quality. Stop in and see what they have of interest knowing you want something with around a 4mm exit pupil.

Hawke makes some decent stuff and have a few to consider:

Folk - you know your optics and are off on that path. Advice solicited. For nautical / yachting and coastal hiking - a monocular.

------------------------

I fully agree and keep a monocular in the car to identify aircraft (warbirds) and ships from my sister's favorite beach near the commercial and military harbor of Portsmouth NH USA. A few times I've recognized the sound of a Merlin engine overhead but it was gone before I could get outside.

Seeing the magnified and normal sized images simultaneously took me some effort, I practiced on the Rockettes in NYC. It also helps with a narrow field of view night vision scope if there's enough light to see faintly with the other eye, as our peripheral vision is more sensitive than our central (foveal) vision to low light levels and motion.

The thermal imager I bought sees very clearly outdoors in darkness since things cool at different rates at night.

When I cut up a roast chicken in night school cooking class I could see and separate the areas that hadn't reached the safe temperature.

<snip>

I've just a really cheap 8x25mm in the car. Works good enough to read the Business Hours on the store door and I don't have to look the fool walking up and tugging on the locked door ;-)

I had no idea I was talking any sense with any of this. Well I am getting over a big surprise! With no sidearms here (UK) no-one has been confronted with training the eye. I was once saved by an optical surgeon who told my yachtmaster friend that on the contrary this is the technique used, because my yachtmaster friend thought I had "lost it this time".