Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?

Or it may be the differential itself.

I've repaired the diff in an Accord, but I'm sure a RAM 1500 might have springs just a wee bit stonger than one can deal with, without an expensive special tool. The Accord center spring was hard enough to manage.

I've also successfully repaired the transmission on an RZ-350, and most people definately consider that NOT a DIY bit. It depends on your definition of DIY.

Good luck.

-gc

Maybe. The noise increases when I let of of the gas pedal and gently depress the brake, and lessens if I press on the gas pedal.

Get the truck safely up on jack stands, have someone 'drive' the truck at the speed(s) where you hear the noise, listen with a stethoscope at the axle tube inboard and outboard ends and at the center near the pinion bearings, a noisy bearing can be easily located this way.

As for DIY; it depends on how well you understand rear axle assembly/repair and the tools that you have available.

Pinion bearing failures are fairly common on this rear axle.

Have you checked to be sure the rear brake shoes (I'm assuming it has rear drum brakes) aren't just worn down to the metal?

Another thing that could change it when you accelerate vs. decelerate is U-joints but if they're that bad you'd probably hear a pretty strong "clunk" when you first put it in gear.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

If it is the axle bearings, replace them both and change the lube. Might be u-joints. Either job is easy and self revealing how to do it.

I replaced rear brakes 15 thousand miles ago. (diy)

I dunno, it happened before and someone else mentioned it, but the symptoms were sort of intermittent. Would I be able to tell, if I place the transmission in neutral, and try to turn the driveshaft by hand?

OK, what is the easies way to tell that from the differential issues?

I have a Dodge repair manual and axle removal seems straightforward, though I do not have an inner bearing puller. (I sold a beautiful Owatonna set 8 months ago)...

Check your u joints, lift one side off ground and inspect visually and see if the shaft has any play in it. Repair is routine if it the u-joints.

ED

If you get the same rumble whether you're going straight or turning, either the diff or brakes making the noise. If playing with the brake pedal doesn't change the noise any, diff. Or maybe u-joint. If the rumble changes significantly when you steer, wheel bearings. Easy to check u-joints. Drive a bit, then feel how hot they are. They can burn your hand even when healthy, but a bad one can feel kinda like the exhaust manifold. A good place for one of those infra-red pointer thermometers. Or just manually wiggle/rotate the shaft. Needle bearings can slide in and out a little--that's no problem, but if one of the trunnion ends can move laterally within the bearing cup it's bad. Hanger bearings are kinda the same--check for hotness or burned/ripped rubber bushing. A sure-fire way to check for a destroyed differential is to drain the oil and check for metal flakes. Metal fuzz ought to be all over a magnetic plug, but any chips at all or splinters means a failure. If all is OK, you get peace of mind and fresh oil in there. Or if you want to keep the oil, just pull the plug and jam your hand over the hole while you inspect it. While you're under, take the time to check out the front. Driveline problems can throw noises clear across the vehicle. Check the oil/level in your transmission/transfer case too. Also an easy check, set one wheel end at a time on a jack stand and try wiggling the wheel with your bare hands. If you have bad bearings you'll be able to feel/see/hear it many times. Or drive and use the thermometer like with the u-joints. And don't forget to check tires for damage. A thin patch or popped cord can make neat noises. If you take it apart, when you put it all back together make sure you lube the wheel bearings. I'd do it myself.

Ignoramus17695 wrote in news:HiIQg.52693$ snipped-for-privacy@fe01.usenetserver.com:

Sounds like pinion bearings. Pretty simple to change the bearings, but you have to re-set the pinion engagement depth. This can be a tedious process.

Only if it's REALLY worn. Pulling the rear driveshaft is pretty simple though and then it's easy to tell what shape they're in.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

OK, if I suspend my truck's rear on jackstands and put the transmission in drive and try to turn the wheels, is it true that I would hear similar noise (similar to what I heard on the road) with the rear suspended (no vertical load on bearings and less torque on u-joint)? That way I could analyze it.

You see, f the story is about replacing U-joint and rear axle bearings, I think that I can do this on my own. I have a manual also, though not for my model year (1998 vs 1999). But the manual is clear that I should not try to rebuild the rear differential.

Yes to this one

It does change things, as does pressing on the gas pedal.

I think that yes to this one,w ill double check.

I like this idea. Thanks. I did put new oil in my diff, I think 2 years ago, so I know how easy it is to take the cover off.

You mean sideways, right? Right/left/up/down.

OK, got it. I will try to do some final diagnostics tonight, if all is good I will go get a rear axle bearing puller and slide hammer from HF tomorrow morning and work on it this weekend.

Thank you BB

You can put it up on stands if you're sufficiently confident it's secure and wheels are blocked, start it up, put it in gear, crawl under it and pull the individual parking brake cables to isolate one side to the other and find your noise that way. It's also possible you won't have any noise without a load on the bearings. Chasing noises can be pretty frustrating. If it is an axle bearing and you let it go too long you'll be buying a new axle as well if it's a 1500.

Yes, I will block front wheels with wheel chocks.

Exactly my concern.

Yeah. I decided to not drive it today.

Can be worse than just bearings. I had one where the pinion nut came loose and allowed the pinion to float in and out depending on accel / decel. In that case it's pretty much a full rebuild of the diff.

Pete C.

You heard pretty bad rattle when that was happening, though, right? It is not the case for me, just screeching.

Never trust a manuals warnings. Rebuilding a typical light truck axle is

Pete C.

Nope, it was perfectly quiet under accel, on decel it was an odd clunk clunk sound that progressively got louder. On accel loading the pinion was pushed forward against it's bearings where it was supposed to be, on decel it drifted back until it was smacking into the openings of the pinion carrier.

Pete C.