Rusty boat trailer

Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer (images can be seen here: https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat
itself weighs about 600 pounds.
Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its intended purpose?
Jon
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"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
Hi all, I'm looking buying a boat, but concerned about the trailer (images can be seen here: https://imgur.com/a/mtkIlST ). The boat itself weighs about 600 pounds.
Is that trailer going to be fixed up with a flapper disk and some primer/paint, or is it too far gone to consider being useful for its intended purpose?
Jon
=======================It looks like some of the galvanizing remains so it may not be too bad unless you find deeply pitted areas that retained water. I've cleaned up worse rust on a truck bumper by sandblasting what abrasives didn't remove. If it was used in salt water you might want to thoroughly hose the tubing inside and out on a hot dry day to wash off any remaining salt.
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On 8/6/20 6:56 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:


Hi Jim, thanks, this trailer is indeed located right near the ocean and was likely used there for at least some time.
Jon
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On 8/6/2020 5:16 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:



Is that a tube frame trailer or a C-channel trailer?
With C-channel the water drains away easier and faster, and you can inspect it more easily. What you see its what you get.
With tube frame trailers I suggest crawling underneath and tapping on any suspicious looking spots and any low spots with a hammer. Even if they have a drain hole. They tend to rust from the inside out, and the hold moisture for a long time.
A buddy of mine has had me cut and patch the cross members on his early 90s tube frame trailer a couple times. A similar c-channel trailer II have was built in 1950, and while I have had to work on it the frame is not rusted through anywhere, and I have not had to repair the frame. Well I did convert it from tilt to fixed by welding it up, but that's it. Neither has been in salt that I am aware of.
I don't know anything about rag hangers, but I'd make my decision based on the value of the clothes line without the trailer.
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On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:





Hi Bob, I'll have to ask the seller, it's a few hundred miles from me so I don't have any way to inspect it before I make the drive. I was assuming it was square, but as light as the boat is maybe it's channel.
Jon
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On 8/7/20 7:30 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Hey Gunner, the seller packed the bearings today so that's a good thing, It's about 300 miles from me so I need to make sure it's roadworthy. It comes with a decebt spare, too.
Tires are shot, so I figured I'd get some "tires on rims" from Amazon; $87 for a pair of Load "C" tires on rims so I don't have to deal with mounting tires and iffy rims when I get there:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
BTW nice DS2 you've got there; I like those better than the DS1, but that's all I have available now.
Jon
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On 8/9/20 2:09 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

UV is a killer for sure.
Jon
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...
I don't know anything about rag hangers, but I'd make my decision based on the value of the clothes line without the trailer.
=====================================Better get used to them, they are coming back. https://theweek.com/articles/825647/why-cargo-ships-might-literally-sail-high-seas-again
Even in the old days the best could reach 14-17 kts. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2010/jul/25/slow-ships-cut-greenhouse-emissions "The world's largest cargo ships are travelling at lower speeds today than sailing clippers such as the Cutty Sark did more than 130 years ago."
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On 8/6/20 7:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:





Hi Bob, the trailer is indeed C-channel. Good news!
Jon
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On 8/7/2020 2:45 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:






You still have to inspect it, but atleast now you can see everything.
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On 8/7/20 9:19 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:






Thanks Bob. Should I just tink it with a hammer and see what sound it makes/make sure it doesn't turn to dust?
Jon
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On 8/7/2020 10:25 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:







Certainly anyplace it looks like you need to. Both sides.
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On 8/7/20 7:13 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Thanks Gunner, it is indeed a DS1, small enough to transport but big enough for fun. I don't have a blaster but that would probably be easier than using the angle (if my compressor can keep up).
Speaking of finishes, I have used the zinc galvanizing rattle can (rustoleum) before, have you ever used that stuff as a primer before final painting? The only times I have used it was as the sole coat, but I don't know if it sticks well enough for use as a primer.
Jon
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On 08/08/2020 12:06, Jon Danniken wrote:




Do you have a galvanising plant nearby, it's a cheap bulk process and if you're going to clean it back to bare metal will provide a better result than paint. Need to make sure you don't have any enclosed box sections, they would need to be vented to allow gas venting and drainage. My neighbour has priced up galvanising versus painting in the past for industrial plant and galvanising came out cheaper and more durable. Paint need to be removed as the initial acid dip will remove rust and scale but not paint, some galvanisers do offer a blasting service as it can be used to provide a rougher surface to enable a thicker zinc surface layer build-up. From the photos I would assume from the rust that the trailer was not galvanised to start with just painted.
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On 8/8/20 5:46 PM, David Billington wrote:

Interesting idea David, thanks for that, I'll call around and see what I can find!
Jon
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On 8/9/20 1:01 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Thanks Gunner, I had a feeling that was the case. I used some of that on some house jacks I cooked up a few years ago that I just wanted to slather with one coat of something. They weren't subject to any abrasive forces, and the galvanizing worked great to keep the bare metal from rusting under the house.
Jon
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