Interesting lathe tooling concept

Basically, clamp the blade to the toolpost and use one of the teeth for cutting the piece. When that chips/wears out, just rotate the blade and bring another into line. Obviously won't be able to cut that deeply, but thought it was a great idea...

iirc John Stevenson has put pictures up on his web site of something similar.

AWEM

Do you have the URL for his site?

Do you have the URL for his site?

But you'll have to grope arround in the dark to find the file passing many interesting things on the way !

AWEM

I used to use a piece of circular saw as a parting tool on my unimat, and Im using the remaining tips on tooling on my L5. The carbide works ok, but does seems VERY fragile compared to 'real' tips. That said I picked up a couple of tipped blades from the local DIY sheds bargin bin for 50p each, with about 20 tips on each, so if I break a few its not to much hassle :) They are sharp, which helps on a small lathe, as it cuts rather than rubbing. I did once have the 'swarf' coming off in a molten stream, which burnt the board the unimat is on, but then I didnt realise the piece i was trying to cut was hardened....

Dave

Cool... How did you cut the circular saw in the first place to get the piece for parting? I think once I get more comfortable with machining, I will experiment with an indexing attachment for the Myford...

With a hacksaw, how else ;)

I cut it roughly in half, following a line from the back of the tooth if you see what i mean. bloody hard work they make the saws out of really tough steel, took ages to cut. Then I cut a retangular piece off the half, so i ended up with something that looked like one of the qcut parting off tools (ish) and then drilled a couple of holes in it, bolted it to a piece of 30mm square CRS bar, with a hole vertically through it to take the bolt to hole it onto the cross slide. quite a simple concept, but took longer to make than explain...

I cant post you some pics if you want.

Dave

unimat,

bargin bin

stream,

With a hacksaw, how else ;)

I cut it roughly in half, following a line from the back of the tooth if you see what i mean. bloody hard work they make the saws out of really tough steel, took ages to cut. Then I cut a retangular piece off the half, so i ended up with something that looked like one of the qcut parting off tools (ish) and then drilled a couple of holes in it, bolted it to a piece of 30mm square CRS bar, with a hole vertically through it to take the bolt to hole it onto the cross slide. quite a simple concept, but took longer to make than explain...

I cant post you some pics if you want.

Dave

Angle grinder with a 1mm disk should make short work of cuting pie slices out out a carbide tipped saw blade. These thin blades are wonderous things but a bit pricey still.

AWEM

Yes they are good, but i made this before Id discovered them... The segment isnt a pie shape, but a rectangle, so you cant really get many out of a blade, but unbrazing the rest of the tips is dead easy, and they come in handy for making other tools with

Dave

I've got a similar torch to this:

It says "suitable for brazing" but I don't really trust MM too far. Would it be suitable for brazing tips onto homemade tools?

Technically yes, but in the real world possibly not. the flame is hot enough, but it might be lacking the 'guts' to do the job easily. heating up a reasonable size piece of metal to brazing temp will take a long time, and the loss of heat from the metal might be more than the torch is capable of supplying. I use one of these

on a

19 Kg cylinder. The gas is cheaper to, which is nice... The type of 'brazing' also make a difference, 'Real' brazing uses brass IIRC, whereas Silver soldering is also refered to as brazin, but you can get different temp silver solders...

Dave

Dave, the Sievert that you link to is currently on my Christmas wish list. It claims that it can be used with Calor, LPG or Propane and although I have a Calor Butane cylinder I had always thought that Butane might not be the best choice. What type of gas do you use with yours and would you recommend the torch for general "Real" brazing work?

Best regards

Keith

Keith, I use mine on a 19Kg Propane cylinder, one of the Orange calor ones (more portable than a 47Kg, and IIRC cheaper per unit than a small

4.5(?)Kg one). IIRC Butane has a higher calorific value than propane, ie more energy, but it has a higher boiling point too, ie it wont work when its cold. The regulator that comes with the torch is a propane one, I think butane cylinders are the other sex, so you'd need another regulator, not really worth the hassle IMO. As for heat output it is good, though the flame with the std nozzle/flare (?not sure if thats the correct term for the tube bit the flame comes from) is quite large and 'bushy', but I have used it for copper and steel brazing, with these rods: it does the job ok. It is also ok for silversoldering, and I use it occasionally for background heat when I am OA welding something large, as it helps to reduce the OA gas costs :) I bought the Sievert torch rather than a generic branded one as the spares and accessories are more available and are going to fit, rather than the 'hope it fits' with generic torch and burner bits. (not a good idea IMO with flammable gasses...)

Dave

and it does the job ok. It is also ok for silversoldering, and I use it

Dave, thanks for that I will move it up to the top of the list. I'll see if the local Calor agent will swap my 47Kg Butane for the smaller Propane. Your right the Butane has the clip on type regulator and I'm not happy with cutting and joining with jubilee clips etc.

I've just given up paying British Oxygen vast sums of money to support my little Portapak system and although I have a MIG set have been missing the general heating/brazing ability of the OA. I can also recommend the Saffire rods you identify and luckily have a few left from my OA days.

Thanks again, best regards

Keith

Some firebrick or refactory tles are handy to place around the workpiec

and help to uniformly heat up the pre tinned joint

-- olmo

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