High temp. connectors?

stranded supply wire.

bad connection)

around the head,

supply wire.

would you recommend?

A rivet would be

bolt) be

those are specially rated terminals and wire ... a first rate appliance repair shop would have them and might sell you a few..otherwise search google.

brass and copper wont work unless plated, ni chrome or silver usually. the insulation is special also

Phil Scott

On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 13:17:02 -0700, Phil Scott wrote (in article ):

Can't use anything off-the-shelf?

Have.

Don't need more nichrome or supply wire; there's enough slack to make it work. Just need a means for connecting these together through the mica (?) composite backing board.

Thanks,

I would probably use a plated crimp sleeve. Overlap the two wires through the whole crimp sleeve - which should be small enough diameter to just take the wires. Double crimp the sleeve onto the wires. Remove any plastic insulation from the crimp sleeve, if fitted, before use.

Make sure that the heater wire and the connecting wire are mechanically supported, so that if the heater wire breaks, everything will stay in place.

Try to keep the splice (and the connecting wire) away from any heat, direct or radiated. The connecting wire should have a high temperature (eg glass fibre) outer sleeve.

Usually caveats about this repair is potentially lethal - particularly as toasters are usually used in kitchens where there is water, lots of good earths and a good chance of killing someone if you do a bad job.

The mechanically supporting both wires is *vital* - it means that, if the heater wire fails, the connecting wire and connector will not flail about and maybe touch exposed metalwork or form a circuit via damp bread from the freezer, someone's fingers - then through to their other hand resting on the cooker or sink..

On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 14:34:35 -0700, Palindr?me wrote (in article ):

How do I determine that it is plated? As opposed to ... just a bare metal sleeve? What plating?

Are the common plastic-covered crimps (which, of course, will be used sans plastic) plated? They seem to me to be made of softer metal that would lose its strength when heated. How to tell if a particular crimp is suitable?

Thanks,

On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 14:34:35 -0700, Palindr?me wrote (in article ):

This is what I used. Found plated crimps at local appliance "fix-it" shop.

Used short length of 14 ga solid copper wire between supply wire and nichrome wire. Two crimps, one for supply-to-solid wire, one for solid wire-to-nichrome.

Looks solid and works. Time will tell.

Thanks to all who contributed ideas.

I needed to repair a 1955 toaster element after someone stuck a fork in to remove a piece of stuck toast. First time, I used a small steel washer folded in half and effectively used as a crimp. That repair lasted about 25 years before the nichrome wire burned through at the edge of the washer (probably the contact got bad and it locally overheated). I've recently repaired it again with a tiny crimp cut off the end of a crimp connection washer, which I suspect was brass. I scratched the nichrome wire clean where it went into the crimp, but I don't know if that really makes any long lasting difference.

If you're playing this game, think carefully what the consequences of the join breaking are, and the nichrome wire contacting the case metalwork. In a British earthed toaster, this is not much of a safety issue, but I wouldn't dare do such a repair on a US toaster which is likely not earthed anyway, and even if it is, the outlet might not be.

why not brass and copper, many terminals for copper wire are made from brass, and copper is widely used for connections

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