Re: True definition of annealing copper

Copper doesnt not need to be quenched after heating to complete the anneal.
Quenching is just a amtter of of convenience if you want to handle it right
Copper, as in copper tubing "anneals" ( softens - recrystallizes) at
realtively low temperatures - 500 C or less . - well below red heat.
Tom Chandler
Annealling is a softening process.
> To anneal copper, heat it then quench it - it makes it more
> malleable/bendable/ductile/more easily formed.
> There are many variations for heat treatment for steel. The basic terms are
> anneal (heat and cool slowly to soften), normalize (heat and air-cool to
> regain strength and hardness), quench (heat then cool in water, oil or
> molten salts to increase hardness & strength), temper (after quench, reheat
> to lower temp to reduce brittleness, then air cool) or draw (after quench,
> reheat to lower temp to reduce brittleness, then requench).
> These treatments are done on different chemistries to achieve different > properties.
> Hope this helps.
> Regards,
> Simon
> "Sorry I don't have a quip, I can never find the time to think a really
> genuine one up, although as I was sitting out the front of my house the
> other day I ..............................."
> > First, what is meant by anneal?
> >
> > Is it different for Copper and Steel?
> >
> > I was told that to 'anneal' copper, you would heat it up and quickly cool
> it quickly, this
> > would make it hard. I have always found the opposite true. I heat copper
> up and quench it,
> > finding the copper tubing to be bendable afterwards.
> >
> > So, I guess the word Anneal is in question for me. To anneal something is
> to what? I
> > checked out and it states
> >
> > "To subject (glass or metal) to a process of heating and slow cooling in
> order to toughen
> > and reduce brittleness.
> > To strengthen or harden."
> >
> > But this doesn't seem true even with steel. I thought steel would get
> harder, but possibly
> > more brittle when you heat it and cool it quickly. Copper would get soft
> by heating it and
> > cooling quickly.
> >
> > What issue am I incorrect with? Once again, anneal means what with what > metals?
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > Rich
> >
Reply to
tom C
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"red heat" depends on the lighting right? ;)
500C is about 932F.
In the dark, stuff starts glowing at ~750F.
What I want to know is what the real "starts to glow in the dark" temperature is?
Seems like I read where it's really 752F (400C) or was the 752F figure a conversion from the rounded off 400C? :/
Alvin in AZ
Reply to
When working Noble Metals I always figured dull red with my bench light off off to be about 1200F then quench in water/acid. Makes them very nice to work. I anneal 0-1 by heating to about 1500F then slow cooling. avid
Reply to
David Berghorst
Cool. :)
I messed around for about a year trying to figure out a way to draw the temper on O1 and 1095 to make springs without buying a special furnace or doing it "blacksmith style". Tried blacksmith style and didn't work out so good for me. :/ Needed more time at-temperature and a way to keep from over-heating it both.
Then I figured it out... remembered a fact from my reading... at ~750F "stuff" starts to glow in the dark. :) That's a bench mark a guy could work from. :)
I put the fresh quenched "springs" in boiling water to clean them.
Then turned out all the lights except the light over the stove.
Lay the pocket knife "springs" on the electric burner and turn it on, and at the same time turn out the light. Pitch black, can't see nothin'. :) As soon as I can see the electric stove coil... quick and turn it off and turn on the light and watch the colors run. :)
After a light sanding of the parts, I would draw them again.
That's the "old" way. ;)
My target temperature is 650F.
It seems to work better to find the adjustment for the stove where it turns itself off just as it glows at any spot in the coil, and lay the spring blanks on there for 10 minutes.
That adjustment can be found with the lights off etc and what's cool is it won't over heat the springs and can keep them hot long enough to work even for that dangged ol' slow O1 to turn into a spring. ;)
Alvin in AZ ps- to heat treat I let the steel's arrest-point tell me when to quench
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