Auto battery

In 60 seconds of searching, I figured out that you are looking for an SAE specification. Perhaps someone here on rcm will know which one it is and how to get to it.

Vaughn

I have the most trouble with the little pieces on the floor.

Why? If for making connections, you can buy terminals to fit the battery posts with studs and wingnuts on them. Very common in marine installations. Most automotive stores have them. Even I, one of the world's great cheapskates, wouldn't make them. :-)

Ted

Try this

wws

On the bottom of this page:

When you get a chance, there's a spring that jumped out of a switch assembly last fall. I think it landed over there somewhere 9gesturing) Rex in Fort Worth

================================== He may have Invented a Better Mousetrap and is researching production specs.

Joe

Just a thought - have you considered taking a battery and measuring it yourself?

Doug Arthurs wrote: I have the most trouble with the little pieces on the floor. ^^^^^^^^^^^ Happiness is an occasional piece in the living room.

Just watch out for carpet burns.

Gunner

"As my father told me long ago, the objective is not to convince someone with your arguments but to provide the arguments with which he later convinces himself." David Friedman

Thanks - I needed that ! Ken

Thanks for the link - That'll work. Ken.

Ted, I've decided to make a positive and negative terminal to enable me to wire in extra cables for the inverter and winch lines on my truck. I HAVE been able to find terminals on ebay which will accept one 1/0, and a combination of either #4 and #8's, but I'm a cheap SOB and don't want to pay up to about $23 each for a couple of terminals. I figure with a couple of nice hunks of brass, I can make them *exactly* the way I want them. Ken.

Not necessarily, but on the newer vehicles, the factory battery clamps on the ends of the cables leave a lot to be desired, and I need to take off another cable to feed a solenoid which will feed 3 heavy cables. I'm running 1/0 winch cables to the back and to the front of my pickup, plus I need to run about a #4 to a power inverter in the cab. All these will be off a solenoid so they will be dead until I need them, but I want to keep the factory cables coming directly off the battery posts with the aux cables attached at the same location - and there ain't a lot of extra cable on the end of the factory wires so I think I can cut off the factory battery clamp and insert the end of the wire in a different terminal and clamp it down with a heavy duty setscrew. Ken.

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:47:34 GMT, Gunner brought forth from the murky depths:

Fear not!

Or for offroad (in the dirt?) work or on wood floors, use these: They're also useful for tracking down jesus clips.

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There a load rating on those things?

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:34:15 GMT, Spehro Pefhany brought forth from the murky depths:

Yeah, generally one load per prone position.

(You asked!)

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IMO, so do the cables. :-(

Why not use crimp connectors with a ring to set on one of those marine type post to screw adapters?

If you do that, you want to squash the whole wire bundle so you should probably put a pad between the setscrew and the wire.

Ted

I've not checked into 1/0 crimp ring connectors (yet) but was thinking that the setscrew connection would be much better.

Good suggestion... Thanks Ken.