Bondo for machine tools?

Hi All,

I see many people extolling the virtues of Bondo, including some who have patched up (cosmetically) the crappy Chinese castings on their lathes or mills. I want to do the same, but a quick visit to the Bondo web site reveals a zillion varieties, and even when narrowed down to body fillers there are still a heap of different types. Is there a preferred type? A particular reason for one vs the other. Etc, etc...

It'd be real nice if someone who has been through the cosmetic work on a lathe or mill could find the time to respond. But all suggestions will be welcomed, including the likes of "it's **really** good for ..." (fill in the blanks).



PS What do you do if you need to patch on really heavily oil-soaked metal - where it doesn't seem to matter how many times you solvent-wash it, oil just seems to keep coming out of the metal?


Reply to
Roger Head
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Use several very wet and hard rubdowns with lacquer thinner and a rough cloth to get all the oil out of the surface.

Paul T.

Reply to
Paul T.

Use the glazing type putty available in tube form from auto paint suppliers. You don't have to mix with a catalyst and being lacquer-base it dries fast and sands easily. It's what the pros use to fill small scratches and voids and used to be red in color. Best of Luck, Hickory-smoked Al

Reply to
Al Babin

Forget the laquer based spackling compound if there is any amount of roughness involved. Darn stuff shrinks when it dries, and makes a royal mess. That's why even auto body shops don't use the crap anymore. Use lightweight polyester body filler. The stuff with the micro bolloons goes on real smooth and stays on. Light, cheap, and easy to sand and paint.

But then Sir Al wouldn't know that.

Reply to

Lacquar Putty, Glaze Putty, or what ever name you call it is still in use today, and is a mainstay. Its not made to fill deep imperfections or fill up gouges etc, its mainly used to fill pin holes and scratches, and it even states not to use if the depth is more than "x" amount. It usually is requred to be applied in one or more coats, and sands easy, if its applied in thick sections it does make a mess. Its certainly not a substitute for bondo. BOndo is for deeper imperfecti9ons and is usually applied over clean dry rustfree metal etc, where Spot and Glaze putty is applied over an already primed surface, as it does not stick well to bare unprimed materials. If you want a super slick finish, fill deep imperfections with a skim coat of bondo, and sand off, apply more if needed, when satisfied, prime with

2 coats of primer, allow to dry, then look it over, and use the Spot and Glaze or red lac putty to fill >x-On 09 Sep 2003 23:23:26 GMT, (Al Babin) wrote: >x-

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foundry and general metal working and lots of related projects. Regards Roy aka Chipmaker // Foxeye Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmAkr for correct email address

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Reply to
Barry Criner

Really BAD advise here. The lacquer based filler is pure crap. It takes months to dry thouroughly and causes the paint to sink as it dries. The pros do not use it at all. Catalyzed glazing putty has been available for at least 20 years and that is what the intelligent pros use. It cures hard and ready to sand in about 20 minutes and does not sink later. Leigh@ MarMachine

Reply to
Leigh Knudson

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