"canoe rack" for carrying 20' steel sticks home?

Or as we say around the shop: "You could drive better if YOU'D GET THE FSKING POODLE OFF YOUR LAP"

I have hauled many a ton of iron that way, on 1 ton welding rigs. My racks have been offset to the right side of the trucks to make it easier to load and unload with a forklift. But I didn't use reciever hitches, I have a piece of reciever tube inlet into the welding bed (flush at the top) with a stop welded to the bottom. And another piece inlet into the front bumper (a HD custom bumper). Both pieces of reciever tube are installed vertical, so the 2" square tube racks just drop in straight down. You might have quite a bit of overhang with that little truck, but I've driven many miles that way, comfortably. You might want to flag the ends. If you put rubber on the top of the rack your material will not want to slide nearly as much. And tie it down well.

JTMcC.

>

If it's for yourself, build it and let us know how it works. If you want a critique for a product, say so....... commercial brain picking isn't fair, is it???

I should have added that I also have a headach rack at the same height, so's the material is supported in three places.

JTMcC.

Check the law. In Nevada, we are limited to 3' overhang from the front and the back of the vehicle. It must also be flagged.

Steve

In this neck of the woods, folks carry long stuff UNDER the vehicle, or along side. Lots of oil tool folks carry long tools and pump barrels on racks that attach to the front and rear bumpers and the cargo goes alongside the passenger side

Gunner

"Gun Control, the theory that a 110lb grandmother should fist fight a 250lb 19yr old criminal"

I occasionally carry 36' lengths of seamless gutter by strapping it to the side of my box truck and sticking it through my driver side mirror bracket.

Grant, that ought to work great, at least with a roof rack to support the middle.

I carry 20' sticks on my two-rail truck rack, that supports only at two points 8' apart. If I want to buy angle under about 2" or any flat bar I have to bring or buy at least one hefty stick of angle or square tube.

The orange "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" tags work well on the tail end.

Bob

In a real pinch, I tied some long rebar up under the truck one time.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing. . . . DanG

of inherited it

have to buy new

my little vehicle.

and aft. I'm

can clamp long

commercial canoe

I don't think it's the "poodle in the lap" , but what is being done to the poodle while in the lap. Gives a whole new meaning to "fornicating the canine" don't you think?

Bernd

Toolbert wrote: (clip) I carry 20' sticks on my two-rail truck rack, that supports only at two points 8' apart. If I want to buy angle under about 2" or any flat bar I have to bring or buy at least one hefty stick of angle or square tube. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ It definitely is important to have the load *stiff*, so it doesn't start bouncing when you goover bumps. It helps to tie or clamp the lengths together. And, as Toolbert suggests, plan ahead and take along one length of something that can add stiffness to the bundle.

I built a setup something like this for my Karmann-Ghia. I drilled the front and rear bumper guards and put in seat belt anchors (eyebolts). I attached a couple of A-frames to hold the "canoe."

Grant I have a '91 Explorer with a "Yakima" (sp) roof rack. I carried some

3/4 x 20' sticks a while back. The biggest problem was that they flexed, up and down, as the road surface varied. This got really wild on big bumps.

If I was to do this again, I would tie the bundles to a wooden 4x4, or similar piece of lumber. My Explorer 4 dr is about 15' long, about a foot longer than a 2dr.

John Normile

I have a roof rack on my 92 Yukon, with a front-hitch "T" support for long stuff. I bought two 10 foot pieces of schedule 80 4" PVC pipe, and added another 2 foot piece I had around, glued couplings, and end caps with screw-in caps. I ratchet-strap it on when needed. I carry 20 foot small diameter pieces for 'wrought iron' work, and misc small tubing, trim moulding, etc. inside the PVC. It was pretty cheap at the BORG.

I stole this idea from an electrician's truck.