Drilling Iron

Take a drill bit. Point it's business end straight at your face and look at it closely. See it's two cutting edges? Out by the periphery of the drill, the cutting edges are next to helical gullets that run the length of the drill. The center of the drill, though, is solid. This solid center area is the "web". In that area, it's much harder for the drill bit to do its work, that's why a pilot hole a bit larger than the web is really helpful.

Grant Erw> IDAGS, but couldn't find out what the "web" of a drill bit is. Anatomy

Reply to
Grant Erwin
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Ah... got it.

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie Jackson

Dan Caster wrote: (clip) Sometimes I drill the pilot hole almost all the way thru and then fill that hole with oil before drilling the full sized hole if I am drilling thick material. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's a good idea!

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Noted. ;-)

Reply to
Jamie Jackson

I did start to say something about enough power and rigid enough machine, but considered that he was using a hand held drill. So did not mention table flexing. But that said, I almost never use more than a pilot hole and the final size on holes less than 1/2 inch dia.

Dan

Reply to
Dan Caster

Here's a good page of description of all parts of a twist drill:

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-- --Pete "Peter W. Meek"

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Reply to
Peter W. Meek

Here's what I learned as I drilled:

I used one jig of my own design: I slotted (1/2 deep) a piece of 3/4" ply on the table saw, exactly the width of the steel I was drilling. Once I had a satisfactorily centered 1/16" pilot hole in one piece of steel, I put a stop block in the end of the wood slot, and laid an undrilled piece in the bottom of the slot. I butted it against the stop block, and laid my "template" (well centered hole) piece on top. I put my hand drill in a cheesy B&D device which "turns your hand drill into a drill press" (I had it laying around the garage), and drilled through the template into the new workpiece. This was a big success and a great leap in precision, compared to past projects, for which I measured each piece before cutting, and attempted to center each hole (unsuccessfully).

Also, as suggested, I applied cutting oil to the bits as needed with an acid brush.

I did, however, manage to break a lot of thin pilot bits, since when I pulled the handle of the "hand-drill press" the bit travelled a lot (laterally) during the pull.

Now, onto countersinking: This seemed to require much more pressure to get shavings than did boring, and I stripped the lever gear on the "hand-drill press" on the second countersink (of ~100). The rest of the countersinking went terribly slowly (hand-holding the drill), but I didn't dull the bit this time, thanks to a lot of cutting oil, and I frequent dipping of the bit into water (to cool it).

Once I broke the chintzy drill fixture, I did a lot of hand-holding of the work against a wood block, and really tore up my hands and wrists, applying all that pressure. Also, for the next few days, I gained an appreciation for the level of aggravation caused by dozens of hair-like steel splinters in my hands.

Anyway, despite the (minor) setbacks, this project went a lot better than it did last time, thanks to r.c.m.

Thanks again, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie Jackson

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