been looking long & hard for a pre-fab. At this point, thinking about
welding it up myself.
Will order pre-cut sheets of 3/16" mild hot rolled steel from
onlinemetals or a similar joint.
What is that black heat resistant exterior (paint?) they use on
stoves ? Can one apply it at a home shop ? Since it is for a russian-
style sauna, it might get occasional drop of water here and there.
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 10:15:27 -0800 (PST), rashid111
I've used both and can't tell the difference. It wouldn't surprise me
if Dampney makes Rutland's paint for them. If the stove is in a damp
location, rusting while it's cold will be a bigger problem than
And check your local steel distributors -- you should be able to do
better on price than the online metals places.
On Sun, 21 Nov 2010 04:38:06 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins
Last year I bought an inline stove pipe heat extractor for the house
and the wife pitched a fit about something within the cautions.
Anyhow, for some reason that receipt just disappeared and the hardware
store wouldn't take it back. So, I put it in the shop, that thing
stunk for at least three days and is a piece of junk, I can exhale
harder than that thing can blow air.
Sure black stove pipe looks cool after ya burn it all off, looks like
something from the turn of the other century. But I wouldn't want to
be in a little steamy hot box with paint burning slowly off.
I've built and assembled many saunas and use to service them along
with spas and the dreaded swimming pools. I still have nightmares and
cringe every time I walk by pool supplies in stores.
Every time I hear the word sauna it reminds me of a very good lesson.
I was replacing a thermostat that some idiot had put right through the
middle of the main power box at a resort. My boss told me over the
radio that he just turned off the main power that fed the box and it
was ok to continue. Well this baby had 440 relays and all kinds of
stuff in it, so I almost got to the probe and the copper line
obviously made contact and a huge blinding light later assured me from
that day onward that I would never trust another person again that the
power is off, crap.
That boss was really quiet after that, btw. He got his later. A friend
and coworker had a meeting with him and the rest of the family to
conspire against me. They proposed that he could do both of our jobs
with lots of over time, a huge raise, and a percentage of the parts he
sold in the field. So he says yeah I'll do it. So they came back and
canned me flat and told me to hit the road for no reason. I was pissed
and just plane sick of that family business anyhow. I wasn't home but
for an hour and the co-worker shows up with a bunch of beer and told
me he just went along with them and strung them along to see if they
would really fire me, as soon as he had heard the news he told them to
fuck off, now they didn't have anyone to do all the work.
Nevermind black paint, as someone else suggested it'll give off some toxic
fumes as it gets hot. Various chemical treatments may possibly also create
It's probably better to just use HRS hot rolled steel sheet/plate, as it's
surface is already a dark color due to somewhat intense/thick oxidation from
exposure to very high heat.
I generally grind away the dark HRS scale in the weld areas, which typically
don't need to be large surfaces, just a slight margin at the edges is
usually all it takes to get very clean welds.
"rashid111" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 10:15:27 -0800 (PST), rashid111
Russian-style sauna? Sauna is a Finnish word and a Finnish cultural
tradition. Finns I knew about had no use at all for the freakin'
Russians. My grandfather could barely say Russian without spitting.
Perhaps you might consult a Finn about how to treat the metal on your
sauna stove. Hint: not paint.
Blackening of steel can be done with a liquor made from black walnut
shells. It can also be done simply with heat. The result is quite
similar to blueing on firearms. Firearms are blued with salts to keep
the temperature down to where it doesn't screw up the properties of
the metal, but that doesn't matter at all on a sauna stove.
Russian-style sauna: Chernobyl.
(Kids: Don't try this at home.)
Acids or bases can blacken metal, too. I wonder if this is an approved
method for saunas. Hmm, I haven't seen any ads to "Parkerize Your
Sauna", have you?
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
II designed and built a wood burning sauna stove about 10 years ago.
I laid out the stove on a cad system then had the parts cut out with a
laser. I used 1/8 P&O cold rolled steel plate. I keyed the parts to
hold them aligned and also had some alignment tools cut out with the
job. I went through 10 lbs of wire welding it up but I had fun. It
has been in service since. Didn't bother painting it.
The design included a door and chimney in the front of the stove that
was outside so the sauna side did not get any smoke. I placed a
flange separation the front and back which was attached to the
I can't take it anymore, yes you paint the sucker!
Use high heat
black in a rattle can and put it on heavy. Then
set it up outside
and put a big hot fire in it, really hot, kiln
dried maple is best.
Then it won't stink anymore and it won't end up
looking like a
chunk of crappy looking scrap iron. And don't be
afraid to fire
it up hot on a regular basis too! If you're the
type who is afraid
of a hot stove with flames halfway up the chimney
you have no
business burning wood. Cold, smoldering, smoky
fires are no
good, they are creosote makers asking for trouble.
of the stove should be snow white!
While we're on the subject, another thing that
gets me going
are top benches too low! The code inspector says
be any higher than what was decided upon by a
panel of ignorant
beaurocrates who don't know shit. How are you
put your feet on the ceiling with a top bench that
And one more thing, just one: rough cut cedar
Rough cut, as in fresh off the circular saw, three
and ten inches wide is about right. Two side by
side on top,
one loner in the middle and two side by side for
Note to Rashid: Kangas is a Finnish name. Saunas are Finnish. Listen
Foreman is not a Finnish name, but my maternal grandparents both came
from Finland. The name was Suuronen but Grampa changed that to Sirola
because nobody here could pronounce Suuronen correctly. My middle name
I've never built a sauna stove so I'll defer to Phil on that. I
rather doubt that they had high-temp paint in rattlecans in Finland
circa 1900, but it may well be a good approach in 2010.
Never been to Finland but my granddad used some stuff he called "stove
polish" every fall when it started to get cold. I think it was a waxy
substance that you just smeared on with a brush, not an actual paint.
all the advice is much appreciated !
I am rather aware of the rich history between Finland & USSR, but it's
been long over by now :), so let's move on.
Besides, in the tsarist Russia, Finland was effectively a self-
governed territory and didn't do that bad at all :)
I am sure Russian "banya"/ "parilka" (steam room) is as old as Finnish
sauna. The chief difference were:
- the method use to heat up the rocks (in traditional Russian design,
they were exposed to direct flame - thus the name "chernaya" (black)
- Finns like dry heat, Russians splash water onto the hot rocks to get
copious amts of steam into the air
Both enjoy the distinct technique of staying in till you can not take
it no more and then, running out buck naked :) and dipping into a ice-
covered lake or a snow drift . In the summer, you'd always have few
buckets of coldest water one can get. The thermal shock is most
beneficial to human body/skin & spirit :)
My main concern had to do with the water being splashed onto the
exterior and creating some rust. I guess I am being paranoid here and
having no paint is just fine :)
While on it:
Is 1/8 HRS good nuff ? Should I use 3/18" ?
About the inside of the oven - are any liners (bricks) etc used - or
fire burn right on the exposed metal ?
Thanks again !
On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 05:23:38 -0800 (PST), rashid111
As Phil said, the paints I mentioned early in the thread are not a
problem. My woodstove is painted with the stuff and sits right between
our kitchen and living room. The fire never goes out from Dec to March
and there's absolutely no odor. The stove paint is made up with very
volatile solvents and stinks like hell while it's being applied and
when the stove is first fired, but the volatiles flash off very
Stove polish is not the same thing as stove paint, and works much
better on cast iron than on steel.
A firebrick or fireclay lining will protect the steel from corrosion
and, to some extent, warping. But it'll also increase the time it
takes for the outside of the stove to warm up. Depending on the
design, I probably wouldn't line a sauna stove.
Steel is cheap and a heavy steel stove is less likely to warp.
At a minimum, I would suggest a grate to hold the wood up off the
floor. Of course, after the first fire, you will have the ashes to
serve as insulation/protection of the bottom of the firebox.
Put the brick on the bottom - that will protect the bottom from
fire. Iron does oxidize. Lining the sides with firebrick will serve
as thermal mass to moderate the extremes of hot/cold as the fire
flares up and burns down. It may take a while to heat the sauna to
proper temps, but it will also take longer for it to cool off, so you
do not have to jump up and stoke the fire.
That too. There is the issue of over building - heavier steel
will mean that it will be longer till you have to repair or replace.
I don't have experience with sauna specific wood stoves, but did
work for a while making "regular" wood burning stoves for heating. I
think we used a 3/8 plate for the box (it was about "that thick" -
holding fingers about a quarter inch apart).
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
-0800 (PST) typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
If the water dries completely (and quickly), it is not going to
get a lot of rust. But the issue isn't so much what you can see, but
the places in back and "underneath" where water can collect,
particularly between uses.
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
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