How do I use a Split bolt ? (electrical)

Albert we:

You could do it that way. Just use lots of tape to get the proper insulation thickness. Or, in the alternative, you could take one of your esisting breaker and run a sub=panel from it. That way you have room for future expansion.

Jim Chandler

A more suitable device would be a "terminal block". Some are made to accept several wires and keep them in using a push-down setscrew. I have some in my "stuff pile", they are not hard to find.

That will work fine. Id put in a sub panel with a breaker for each welder..shrug..but thats just me.

Electrical tape is just fine. Wrap well with multiple layers.

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

You can also get self vulcanizing tape specifically made for high voltage splices. Get it at an electrical store, no HD or Lowes. then wrap that with lots of electrical tape.

This stuff

" Scotch® 23 Rubber Splicing Tape is a highly conformable, self-fusing Ethylene Propylene Rubber (EPR) based high-insulating voltage tape. Scotch® 23 has a "snakeskin" liner that is easily removed as the tape is applied. "

Nice stuff, but 208V isn't remotely close to "high voltage", and indeed I expect it's 120/208 Y service so it is only 120V to ground. Heck,

The good thing about using splicing tape is that it wears better. For instance should he splice and the cable just kinda flops around on the floor or against a brick wall, abrasion could "sandpaper" through mere plain old electrical tape. However it won't likely wear through splice tape.

When electricians make splices with those split bolts they use splice tape and then a good layer of electrical tape.

If you want to get really fancy you could smear a little antioxidizing grease on the bare wire before you tape.

The split bolts are the way to go. The best way to insulate them is to wrap with splicing tape, which is thick, rubbery and self-vulcanizing, then cover that with vinyl electrical tape. Make sure the split bolts are compatible with your wire (aluminum or copper). Wire brush the wire and use de-ox goo if it is aluminum.

You should also be aware that a multi-outlet circuit greater than 50A in a residential setting is *not* code compliant.

And one other thing, there is a torque value for the split bolt and it is important to torque it.

I have used electrical tape and then over wrapped with glass tape for a bit more abrasion resistance.

Dan

Yes. When it is done properly the splicing tape melds into a rubber cocoon around the split-bolt. When you wrap the vinyl tape around that the last pass should be without tension, if you keep stretching the tape as you apply it will have a tendency to unwrap.

Put the first layer of vinyl electrical tape upside down with the sticky side up. If you ever want to add or open the splice you will know why. Then use splicing tape to build up the insulation to three times the thickness of the present insulation on the wires. Make sure you have no sharp wire ends that will pierce the insulation. A final layer of vinyl tape on top of the splicing tape will keep the splicing tape from sticking to everything else in the box. The split nuts should be torqued to the proper value. Also let them sit a while and torque them again. The copper tends to cold flow and retorquing can save you some headaches down the road. The split nuts are rated for a certain wire size and number of wires. The rating is stamped or molded on the split nut.

John

Can you point me to the section of code that says this??

Thanks

William....

Section 210.3, at least as of the 2002 edition. My emphasis added:

Exception: Multioutlet branch circuits greater than 50 amperes shall be permitted to supply nonlighting outlet loads on industrial premises where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the equipment.

BTW, I'm not sure how they get away with posting this, but here's NFPA70 2002 in pdf format.

Not my code, but I would have thought that one would have a reasonable argument for an intelligent user of a home shop that is read up on the codes to be sufficiently qualified to be able to service and operate equipment that they have installed in that shop. Maybe not...

Mark Rand RTFM

Maybe because it's 2 revisions old, now that the '08 is out. Bob

But even the most qualified user of a home shop would not make the typical home shop an "industrial premise".

you could, of course wire it the way you want, put in the big breaker and if you ever get a hint of an inspection, put in a 30 amp breaker for the inspection, then change back - nothing says you can't use oversized wire

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I'm reasonable, you're reasonable, and most likely the OP is reasonable. But given a choice between reason and the plain language of the code, the electrical inspector will go with the code. That's the blessing and curse of bright-line regulations.

Biggest problem I get is that some of the neighbours and some of the local planning (zoning) officers think that my workshop looks a bit industrial. Must be for business use, no one would have several lathes, surface grinder, milling machines etc. if it wasn't for business, would they? This would lead to expensive conflict with the council, fines and probable demolition of the workshop.

My explanation to all who ask is that one could make a small fortune with the kit that I have in the workshop, but only if one started with a large fortune!

Mark Rand RTFM