Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe spindles in a variety of ways. Most of the time I can grasp what is going on but some of the designations stumped me: What is the D 1-4, D1-6 etc., mount? Books and Google are no help.
Thanks,
ebay can be of help. Look for d1-6 in Business and Industrial section.
example
IIRC, the D series are cam locks, pins with a cam ramp that pull chuck onto a short spindle taper. Nice and fast to change.
L series you can find info on at
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Yes, but what does it *mean*?
maybe this will help:
I'll try a more basic answer: The old line chucks were screwed onto a threaded spindle. These don't give a positive centering action as they wear as well as a little problem with high speed reversing: If you accidentally hit reverse, the chuck would unscrew and sail across the room.
The D series have a short taper that centers the chuck, al> Looking at chucks from various sources they seem to be mounted on lathe
Now I got it. Thanks.
From what I have learned so far these are not the D-type thingies...Straight: bolt the chuck to a plate - screw the plate to the spindle thingies...or am I wrong?
You forgot: clean chips off everything. For me this is the most choresome step in changing a chuck.
Yes, they are for threaded spindles. All types of spindle work OK, some may be a little better in some ways but you learn what your own machine will and won't do and adapt to it. I have the supposedly least desireable type of lathe with a threaded spindle and leather belt drive and it works fine for me, although it won't cut as deep or fast as other more modern lathes I've used.
The only unsatisfactory lathe spindle I've seen is on the old 6" Craftsman 109 / AA lathe. The 1/2-20 thread would be OK but the Morse taper cut in it weakens it too much.
I'll add my .02. The number of pins varies with the size of the mount. A D1-5 like my lathe has 6 pins, although my 5C collet closer only has 3 on it, I guess they figure you can only put so much cutting force on a peice small enough to go in a 5C collet.
Thank You, Randy
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The outside of the spindle is a straight 1/2-20 thread. The inside is reamed Morse 0 which makes the spindle nose a thin-walled tube that flexes a little too easily. The good part is that the spindle takes a standard Jacobs thread-mount chuck which is very convenient for polishing and high-speed deep hole drilling as long as hole alignment isn't critical. I used this lathe to drill the grease passages in the pivot pins for my front end loader, after center-drilling them accurately in the South Bend. Drilling sixteen 3/32" holes 2" deep was just too tedious on the SB.
There are several other "why do it?" design choices on the 109 lathe.
The outside of the spindle is a straight 1/2-20 thread. The inside is reamed Morse 0 which makes the spindle nose a thin-walled tube that flexes a little too easily. The good part is that the spindle takes a standard Jacobs thread-mount chuck which is very convenient for polishing and high-speed deep hole drilling as long as hole alignment isn't critical. I used this lathe to drill the grease passages in the pivot pins for my front end loader, after center-drilling them accurately in the South Bend. Drilling sixteen 3/32" holes 2" deep was just too tedious on the SB.
There are several other "why do it?" design choices on the 109 lathe.
***Now I get it. Inside. Are there many tools that have that particular taper? Just off the top of my head I cannot recollect anything smaller than MT2.
Quite uncommon, actually. I have a MT-0 reamer, which I used to fit fiddle pegs to an Appalachian Dulcimer. The smallest tools which I have with Morse Taper shanks are MT-1 -- the tailstock taper for my Compact-5/CNC and my (pretty much retired) Atlas/Craftsman 6" lathe. The spindle taper on both are MT-2, as is the taper in my drill press. I do have a few MT-1 shanked drill bits for the tailstock use -- and some adaptors to turn taps and corresponding drills into MT-1 shanks.
My 12x24" Clausing has a MT-3 tailstock taper and a MT-4-1/2 headstock taper.
As I said -- quite uncommon, though you might find watchmaker's lathes with that taper. (Most have WW collet tapers instead.)
Enjoy, DoN.
Good evening :)
iirc. . . Sherline lathe, Tailstock MT-0, Headstock MT-1
Bob rgentry at oz dot net
MT1 is the smallest common size on machine tool spindles and taper- shank drill bits. My lathe's tailstock is MT2, which is a good useful size for turning the likes of a 40 Lb hunk of scrap hydraulic cylinder rod. MT1 drill bits fit with adapter sleeves. Normally tailstock drill chucks work fine, my lathe was abused and has a replacement tailstock spindle that is somewhat loose and taper-shank drill bits give better results.
That's the risk of buying old machine tools. The 10" South Bend (or Logan, et al.) is a nice lathe for a home shop but mine has a few problems I have to work around. I can do that because like you I design all the parts I make. It isn't the right machine to crank out stuff for a living, that's probably why I could buy it fairly cheap.
I mentioned that Sears lathe as a bad example to avoid unless you only make small toys out of soft material. It might actually be OK for aluminum or brass gnomons but a poor choice to turn steel shafts for your rotary polishing table. There may be others, I've seen complaints about some of the Unimats being too flexible to make steel parts also. I don't know much about the other mini lathes. 9 - 10 inch (diameter) capacity seems about the minimum for making parts for gas-powered equipment.
Jim Wilkins
The old Sears/Dunlap/AA 109s are cute little metal lathe "models". Their best use is freshly restored and painted and gracing a shelf in your library. That's where mine are.
And you can use MT-3 shank drill bits (up to 1" diameter) in a tailstock like the one on my 12x24" Clausing, or use the smaller shanks with one or two reducer sleeves.
That -- and the fact that it is a bit small for serious production work -- even for smaller parts.
Let's be clear *which* Sears lathe, as there were two 6" lathes offered by Sears. There is the 109 series (made by AA tool, IIRC) with the tiny spindle -- way too small for a 6" swing lathe. There is also the Atlas/Craftsman 6x18" which is MT2 spindle taper with a 1"x(I forget the pitch) threaded spindle, and a MT-1 taper in the tailstock. This was a much more solid machine -- though it would have been nice to have a quick-change gearbox for it.
The SL-1000 and the DB-200 -- early Unimats with a bed consisting of two steel rods resting in 'V's in an aluminum base for the SL-1000, and I think perhaps a cast iron base for the earlier DB-200.
Some later Unimats use the same cast bed as the Emco-Maier Compact-5 lahtes (one flat and one V way -- the same ways used for both the carriage and the tailstock). Those are rather more rigid for the size.
There are times when I would like to have something larger than my current 12x24" -- but the space consumed makes this an awkward tradeoff.
Enjoy, DoN.
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