Metal Sculpture & Domestic Tranquility

On Sat, 04 Apr 2009 15:09:05 GMT, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@alum.mit.edu (Doug White) scrawled the following:

No, don't use spray plastics. They're a bear to repair when they break down in a year or less.

Someone once suggested that ungodly expensive (~$240/lb IIRC) metal polish and finish once. (Ed, was that you?) I've forgotten the name.

Anyway, you use it sparingly and it only needs to be touched up every two or three years after that.

Alternatively, some of the polymer car "waxes" might work really well.

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

Consider:

1) Penetrol 2) Future Acrylic Floor Treatment (was/is sold under Pledge, too)

Nyalic

I think Everbrite is Nyalic. I can't find a reference now but I think I did discover that at one time when trying to get some Nyalic.

Everbrite

On Sat, 04 Apr 2009 21:28:05 -0500, the infamous Don Foreman scrawled the following:

That's the ungodly expensive (but good) stuff I was talking about. It doesn't look quite as expensive the second time around.

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

Penetrol sounds good, but it seems to be listed as a paint additive, not as a protective finish in its own right. Have they changed it, or is this the same stuff?

Doug White

I could not say. I bought mine about a year and a half ago. I got the hint from a metal sculpture discussion group where they seemed to like it. I have been using it but do not have a track record over years to show how good it is long-term.

Does that can say anything more specific than "Penetrol"? The only stuff Flood sells now is listed as "Oil-Based Paint Additive". I found a place in Australia that lists a version specifically for protective metal, but it apparently leaves a brown finish, and the US web site makes no mention of it.

Thanks!

Doug White

This is what I have got:

Note the last sentence in description. On the can the specific use to protect metals and wood as well as restore metals is mentioned. You have probably read this:

All I. can say is that I have not had brown finish so far but then my surfaces are not particularly light. Nor has this guy, apparently:

I found some references when people came unstuck applying it to fibreglass etc. You might find this web site useful: They are people who do metal finish for living and convincingly demonstrate that there is more than one way to skin a cat...

BTW do not discount this:

It is cheap, non-toxic and surprisingly resistant and compatible with more substrates than Penetrol (ask me how I know!). And it dries more quickly.

Hope this helps.

I'll see if I can find some Penetrol, now that I know the paint additive also works standalone. If I strike out, I see Future in my future...

Thanks!

Doug White

On Tue, 07 Apr 2009 22:01:28 GMT, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@alum.mit.edu (Doug White) scrawled the following:

I've used Flowtrol and Penetrol to make wb/oil paints flow better, but I didn't know they could be used as a metal finish. I'll have to try that on my mower deck after a good pressure washing. Speaking of mowers, mine tried hara kiri last weekend. First, I heard the blade hit what I thought was a small branch from the tree overhead. It then immediately stopped the mower, turning out to be the steel brace between the front wheels, forming the curve at the front of the deck for the blade and holding the deck more steady at the wheels. Then I hit a large rock which sent the blade up into the deck itself, gouging a 2" long gash where it stuck. A punch and hammer freed it. Luckily the old B&S engine crankshaft had been bent many times before, so it didn't make any difference in the horrible vibration level. That $188 Wally World mower (a jan-u-wine Murray!) sure has paid for itself. If I weren't in the process of doing away with the lawns here, I might break down and buy a new one.

I've used Future on my linoleum floors for about 40 years now and it's great...indoors.

So, you weren't interested in the Nyalic/Everbrite coating, eh?

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

You paid more than $25 for a mower? I never paid over $20 at one time in my life. Most of the time it is either free, or a couple bucks for a coffee. I currently have three working mowers (at least they worked when I ran them dry last November) and have $5 tied up in purchases plus maybe $35 in parts. I give mowers away when the need arises. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

On Tue, 07 Apr 2009 22:51:34 -0400, the infamous Gerald Miller scrawled the following:

I generally buy a new one and never have real problems with them for a decade or so. That averages out well: less than $20 per year.

Why buy/take on someone else's problems? I like to pull the cord once and have the beastie start for me. You?

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

I generally have to pull twice. Particularly the one I bought for $5 in 1990 - brought it home, dumped the water out of the gas tank, put in fresh gas and it started on the third pull. Think of all the fun I have tinkering with these little toys. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

On Wed, 08 Apr 2009 20:03:42 -0400, the infamous Gerald Miller scrawled the following:

Yabbut, I'm still working for a living. Currently, I'm building a carport and reroofing my pump house roof, too. I don't have time to do Usenet, view por^H^H^HNetflix movies, email, read lotsa books, AND tinker much, but I'm happy for you.

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar