Metro wire mesh shelves- making posts

Metal shelves, so N.O.T., I hope.
I have a bunch (13) of metro wire mesh shelves, no posts.
Posts are $22 each.
My plan was to find something close to the clip size (those tapered
round shims, whatever you call 'em), install a roll pin where I wanted a shelf, and the pin would hit the tapered clip/shim and the force of the shelf on the clip, squeezing it aganst the post, would take most of the weight. I don't think the actual groove/ridge in the metro post/clip really takes the weight, anyway.
The only pipe a good fit for the clips (have 'em) is 3/4 inch rigid conduit, but at $15 each, not enough of a price break to make a DIY effort worthwhile.
Any thoughts out there, before I just bolt the shelves to 2x4s?
Anyone have a bunch of posts, but no shelves?
Dave
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Are you forgetting that the rigid conduit is 10' long, so it's roughly 1/3 the cost you indicate for the real Metro posts? If you go that route, I also wouldn't use roll pins either, I'd drill holes every couple inches and use the hitch pins with the locking bail so the shelves retain adjustability. Might also check with your local suppliers to see if they have any scratch and dent posts they'd sell cheap.
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Well, this is true, but I have ht to spare and was hoping for taller shelves than 5-foot. I'm horribly cheap, as well, I figure a *real* conduit supplier might be cheaper as well.
I've done some checking, haven't found anything local (driveable).
One reason for a roll-pin is that in some cases (with the plastic clips), the pin has to be able to fit into the hole in the shelf, ruling out my 1st plan (16d framing nail, bent and cut)
Dave
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Weld the cutoff sections together.

Electrical distributor. May not be much cheaper in small quantities.

Must be an electrical distributor within about 20 miles. Also look at the Depot / Lowe's for damaged conduit, a little bend of smashed end should drop the price while not being an issue for you to fix or work around.

Hole in shelf? Huh? I've got a 24x60 setup of Metro shelving that I use as an entertainment center and there aren't any holes in the shelves.
Another option, if the conduit OD is the correct size, is to make the standard Metro style groves. Shouldn't be that difficult, just layout positions with a tape measure and a marker, and then roll the groves in using a tubing cutter with a wheel that has been dulled on a grinder. Use half a taper clip as a test gauge.
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The holes I meant are the big ones where the clips go in. The AL clips stick out the bottom, the plastic ones go up into the taper a bit with none sticking out.
Welding, old tubing cutter, I'm lazy too. Well, more strapped for time than lazy.
Making a set of 5-foot shelves (well, with casters, a bit taller) is the cheapest option so far that doesn't involve wood.
Dave
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

If you intend to put them on casters, it's even more critical that the tubing OD is correct and the tapered clips clamp properly since that clamping is the only thing providing stability against racking with the Metro shelves, vs. regular shelves that have cross braces.
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That's why that one type of tubing is the only option for that method. Fits well, will have to assemble with a mallet (the way its supposed to).
Dave
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Excellent quality compatible clone of the Metro shelving:
http://www.sevilleclassics.com /
Sold at Sam's Club.
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Richard J Kinch writes:

4 poles for $40 with free shipping:
http://www.sevilleclassics.com/index.cfm/a/catalog.prodshow/vid/20420/catid/161
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Richard J Kinch wrote:

I have a set of those out in the garage, and I think they may have the feet on them. A young man that I've been teaching computer repair brought them home from the restaurant he worked at, and they have been in the way for a year. The OP can have them, for the cost of shipping.
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wrote:

4) 72" poles, shipping, I have no idea, but I'm in 13068.
Thanks-
Dave
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I found them, but one is bent pretty bad. I doubt that you can salavage it, but I'll take some pictures if you want to see them.

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wrote:

Depends on what shipping would be- probably not worth the effort for something odd-sized like that?
Dave
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If the shipping is free, I could even afford to get them 4 at a time as budget allows.
Thanks!
Dave
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On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 19:33:09 -0500, Richard J Kinch

And at Costco - My computer desk is one of these sets, with a 12" x 48" cantilever shelf on the front with a pine board cut to fit inside for the keyboard and mouse. (I have an oak board to cut and notch, and stain to match the house, but need a Round Tuit to do it.)
The InterMetro cantilever shelf was $30 by itself, but they are totally interchangeable.
Seville Classics has a set of four 72" poles online for $39.99, and the snap sleeves are $3.99 for two shelves (8 sets). You can probably beat that by a decent amount if you search around.
Or you could pick up a pile of 1" OD pipe and make a groove roller to form your own uprights. A Ridgid #2 pipe cutter with a slightly modified (or really dull) cutting roller should do nicely.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Oct 5, 12:30 am, Bruce L. Bergman

Its interesting to see what pipe fits, and what doesn't. So far the only fit close enough is 3/4-inch rigid conduit, $15 for a 10-foot section.
Dave
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On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 06:01:46 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

3/4" rigid conduit is roughly the same OD (give or take a few hundredths) as 3/4" NPT galvanized water pipe, and a lot more money. The only real difference is the 'seamless' (mandrel drawn) interior so you don't snag the wire insulation.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Oct 5, 1:36 pm, Bruce L. Bergman

That;'s the downside of only getting to home depot so far- they dinnah have the galv pipe (not cheaper than conduit, that would fit, anyway).
Dave
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

without those plastic shims, your shelf will wobble alot with just pins though a pipe or whatever you use.
maybe you can order some pirate metro racks parts- i'd try a place that sells used retaurant equipment first.
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The idea is the pins just hold the shims up the same way the groove does, then the weight on the tapered hole/shim clamps the shims to the pole, with no movement.
The little groove doesn't take the weight, its the clamping.
Dave
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