Motor foot repair

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig torch.

Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Clare:

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.

Chris

Hi folks,

I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a picture:

I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.

Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!

Best wishes,

Chris

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For a buffer the load on the motor base is an upward pull in front, a downward push in back. I'd put the broken foot in back with a large washer over it.

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom "washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the remaining casting...

It looks to me like the base is removable with 4 bolts, so you could heat it, if only in the kitchen oven.

Mikek

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom "washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the remaining casting...

Yeah, that fits what I had in mind very well :)

Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think its intended for welding cast iron. Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to minimize heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.

I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't reall seeing it reccommended.

I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.

Yeah, that fits what I had in mind very well :)

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price. Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack. Look it up.... phil k.

Learn something new everyday. Thanks. I actually have some nickel 55 rods. I bought them a few years ago because they were dirt cheap (not as cheap as 6013 or 7018) when a local store was closing out one line of welding products in order to bring in a different line. I figured, "what the heck. I might use them someday." Stuff was so cheap guys were filling up entire grocery carts with supplies to stock up their shops.

I'm still not a real welder.

Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 18:46:22 UTC+2 schrieb Phil Kangas:

Great tip. Thanks, Phil!

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price. Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack. Look it up.... phil k. ============================ Don't waste it.

Yup. Don't waste it. What I do is remove the coating and TIG weld with it. As the rod gets short I'll tack it onto the next long stick. No waste at all. I've used up quite a few rods in my life. phil k. ;>)

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If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course) and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as a spacer or leveler for a bolt.

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If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course) and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as a spacer or leveler for a bolt.

I've been using Invar 42 that a very nice gentleman in Delaware sent me a couple or 4 years ago . Does wonderful on CI , but is also very good for welding tungsten electrodes to SS mandrels to be used to make glass beads . I've also got some strips cut from an old CI stove door that work well . But that ain't going to help the OP , who doesn't have a TIG welder .

I've been using Invar 42 that a very nice gentleman in Delaware sent me a couple or 4 years ago . Does wonderful on CI , but is also very good for welding tungsten electrodes to SS mandrels to be used to make glass beads . I've also got some strips cut from an old CI stove door that work well . But that ain't going to help the OP , who doesn't have a TIG welder .

Pretty sure this would work, but I was hoping to make the repair less visible. This is a motor from 1937, so it's a piece of history.