Motor foot repair

Hi folks,
I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a picture:
http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/Broken_Motor_Foot.jpg
Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?
I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.
Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!
Best wishes,
Chris
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On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700 (PDT), Christopher Tidy

I'd grab a hunk of cast iron and a hand grinfer and reproduce the missing part - and weldit on with stainless steel wire and a tig torch.
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Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 03:56:03 UTC+2 schrieb Clare:

Cast iron is possible, but I've not got TIG. Just the AC arc welder where the motor is located. I've got a DC arc welder elsewhere.
Chris
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On 5/14/2020 7:00 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:

Nickel 99 rod might do ok with what you have. I think its intended for welding cast iron. Lots of clean and prep work, small welds to minimize heat input, and peen continuously on each weld as it cools.
I have heard of guys using cheaper nickel 55 rod, but ... I don't reall seeing it reccommended.
I'm not a real welder. I just play one on the Internet.
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"Bob La Londe" <> wrote in message

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price. Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack. Look it up.... phil k.
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On 5/15/2020 9:46 AM, Phil Kangas wrote:


Learn something new everyday. Thanks. I actually have some nickel 55 rods. I bought them a few years ago because they were dirt cheap (not as cheap as 6013 or 7018) when a local store was closing out one line of welding products in order to bring in a different line. I figured, "what the heck. I might use them someday." Stuff was so cheap guys were filling up entire grocery carts with supplies to stock up their shops.
I'm still not a real welder.
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Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 18:46:22 UTC+2 schrieb Phil Kangas:

Great tip. Thanks, Phil!
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"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
"Bob La Londe" <> wrote in message

No weldor would ever choose a filler rod by price. Nickel 55 has the peculiar property of expanding slightly on cooling minimizing the tendency to crack. Look it up.... phil k. ===========================Don't waste it. https://www.metals4uonline.com/arc-welding-electrodes-55pct-nickel-1_8th-half-lb
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"Jim Wilkins" <> wrote in message >

Yup. Don't waste it. What I do is remove the coating and TIG weld with it. As the rod gets short I'll tack it onto the next long stick. No waste at all. I've used up quite a few rods in my life. phil k. ;>)
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On 5/15/2020 5:36 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:




I've been using Invar 42 that a very nice gentleman in Delaware sent me a couple or 4 years ago . Does wonderful on CI , but is also very good for welding tungsten electrodes to SS mandrels to be used to make glass beads . I've also got some strips cut from an old CI stove door that work well . But that ain't going to help the OP , who doesn't have a TIG welder .
--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
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"Snag" wrote in message
I've been using Invar 42 that a very nice gentleman in Delaware sent me a couple or 4 years ago . Does wonderful on CI , but is also very good for welding tungsten electrodes to SS mandrels to be used to make glass beads . I've also got some strips cut from an old CI stove door that work well . But that ain't going to help the OP , who doesn't have a TIG welder .
--
Snag
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"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
Hi folks,
I have a 1/2 hp dual-shaft electric motor from 1937. It runs and I'm planning to add a couple of buffing mops for polishing metal. But it's missing part of a mounting foot. Here's a picture:
http://sphinx.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/Broken_Motor_Foot.jpg
Do I stand a reasonable chance of repairing the foot using 2 mm stainless welding electrodes and an oil-cooled AC welding set?
I was thinking of grinding away a large, neat piece and making a mild steel slotted piece to match, and also bevelling the edges, but I can't really pre-heat the part.
Will this work? What do people think? Thanks!
Best wishes,
Chris
=============================For a buffer the load on the motor base is an upward pull in front, a downward push in back. I'd put the broken foot in back with a large washer over it.
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On Fri, 15 May 2020 07:23:36 -0400

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom "washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the remaining casting...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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"Leon Fisk" wrote in message

I would do more or less the same as Jim. Only I would make a custom "washer" thick enough along the missing edge to be level with the remaining casting...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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On Fri, 15 May 2020 10:03:55 -0400
<snip>

Yeah, that fits what I had in mind very well :)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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"Leon Fisk" wrote in message wrote:
<snip>

Yeah, that fits what I had in mind very well :)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
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Am Freitag, 15. Mai 2020 14:53:04 UTC+2 schrieb Leon Fisk:

If I decide not to weld the foot, I'll make a washer like that. Thanks, Leon!
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On 5/14/2020 7:11 PM, Christopher Tidy wrote:

It looks to me like the base is removable with 4 bolts, so you could heat it, if only in the kitchen oven.
Mikek
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On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700, Christopher Tidy wrote:

...
If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course) and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as a spacer or leveler for a bolt.
--
jiw

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"James Waldby" wrote in message
On Thu, 14 May 2020 17:11:23 -0700, Christopher Tidy wrote:

...
If you have some 3/8" or so plate you could weld the whole base to it (welding with the base removed from the motor, of course) and then your added bit would not need to do more than act as a spacer or leveler for a bolt.
--
jiw

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