OT - BMW RS100

It's actually tough to buy the non-hinged ones nowadays. If you order the plain ones, often you'll get the hinged ones.

Most of my non-AMOL parts these days come from Capitol Cycles.

Jim

Further to my previous post, I delved into the archives and found I have a scan of the workshop manual. Drop me a note (remove the obvious spamtrap) if you (or anyone else) wants it. To big to email - it will have to be on CD. Geoff

(snip)

From my previous post, here's my thoughts:

(quote) ===============================================

First off you don't get them for free, I think a dyna 3 is a few hundred dollars.

I have a points ignition in my R75, and the new bike had that same setup but was retrofitted by the previous owner with the dyna 3.

When he did it, he hooked the electronics box up wrong to the coils, but it did still run fine.

Comparison shows that both points and the electronic ignition do indeed provide satisfactory spark to run the bike. Granted I've removed the stock BMW wires and resistor plug caps on them, and replaced with straight copper 8mm silicone rubber wires from Taylor Vertex. So the resistor issue is moot.

The think I like about the points is they seem to not require adjustment on that bike hardly at all. I haven't had the front cover off the R75 in about two years, so there's not a lot of tinkering required.

The Dnya 3 uses the stock mechanical ignition advance unit, so whatever unreliability is inherent in that, is still present. And the dnya trigger unit that attaches to the cam seems a bit fidgity, though I've had no troubles with it. Likewise the circuit boards that hold the pickups seem kinda fragile.

The one upside with the Dyna is, I think you can individually move the pickups to get the spark spot on on both jugs. But then, my R75 never had the 'split timing marks' problem.

I think for me the biggest worry is that if something goes wrong inside the potted electronics unit, it's a drop-dead, walk home failure. With points, you can always manage to get 'em working somehow. Of course I carry spare points and condenser in the older bike's toolkit. I know that folks say that electronic parts are so much more reliable than mechanical ones - but this is a vehicle, and the parts are a) built to a price, using b) consumer grade parts, and d) subjected to extremes of temperature and vibration.

I'm either going to start carrying an entire spare dyna unit, or swap back to points on the newer bike. =================================================================== (endquote)

Jim

It's been a while, so I can't picture that model. I remember R100S (small fairing), and the R100RS (larger fairing with lowers). I had the latter, it was either the first or second year of production. Only major problems I remember were warped front brake rotors (they were pretty thin), and broken gear dogs (third perhaps). Both should have been well cured by '82. I also remember lots of fork stiction, which the factory said could be alleviated somewhat by removing one of the two seals in each leg , which pretty well finished off my impression of the "finely engineered" thing. I did like the light weight and big fuel tank. I took it on a 5000 mile trip once without problems, and I'll give the seat nine stars.... out of a hundred. ;-)

Wayne

Mac, Has anyone advised you to lubricate the splines on the rear drive unit? I had a 1974R75/6, which has the same final drive setup. I used a concoction of anti-sieze and grease, about 50/50, and brushed it in there with a small acid brush. Then whenever you change the rear tire, clean that out and re-lube it. It requires several hundred dollars to have the splines replaced. Grease is much cheaper. Also, the transmission input shaft should also be lubricated anually, where the clutch disc slides back and forth, same lube, same way, you have to seperate the tranny from the engine, takes about an hour, after you have done it a time or two. You also have to remove the swing arm pivots to get the trans back, this is a good time to check the lube there, too. I am on my second airhead, R100RT, 1991. Has better power for two-up riding than the R75 had. I have a single-side swingarm now, and no splines in the final drive/tire connection. I also vote for keeping the points. They might require attention once a year, but if say, a hi-energy-impulse nuclear device is detonated within a few hundred miles, you might have the only vehicle running in your area. I have replaced both seats on my beemers with Corbin seats, and am glad I did. It is well worth the investment. Watch out for shorting the diode board, they are pricey, but if you know a radio Dr., diodes are really cheap. The trannys are notoriously clunky, so that is most likely the clunk you mentioned. It is cheap insurance to drain all fluids yearly, and replace with good quality lubricants. It only takes 2 quarts of oil to change it, so don't be a piker, change it when it starts getting easy to see on the dipstick. Oil filter, once a year. Join the BMWMOA you wil find it worth the price. Happy motoring!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sid, near Niagara Falls

The splines wear eventually no matter what. But the anti-sieze is a good idea. I like the molydisulfide stuff.

Not as big an issue as a single-point electronics failure in the Dyna unit. I carry spare points in the older bike, but I worry about the electronics in the newest one. (the oldest ones carry a spare magneto coil!)

Folks are divided on this. Many swear by Sargent, and say that corbin has sorta lost it.

Jim

G'day, thanks for the info, knew about the rear spline. Did about