Truing diamond grinding wheel

At the exhibition at Alexandra Palace I bounght one of the small diamond cup wheels from RDG with a view to using it to sharpen carbide gravers.

It is similar to that shown on their website:

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Having mounted it on a (ground) 10mm arbor there is a small amount of runout at the wheel (3 thou or so). If it were a normal bonded alumina/carborundum grinding wheel I would simply true up with a diamond dressing tool.

Is there a similar procedure for these wheels which anyone could point me at?

Alan

Reply to
Alan Bain
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Send it back it should run true unless your arbor is out. You could try a bit of paper behind the flange at the lowest point.

John S.

Reply to
John S

Not sure what I would expect on a new wheel as I haven't bought any, but I have seen RDG kit as not always the greatest, although I am happy with the few items I have bought so far.

Having said that I did buy a high quality (so I believe) grinder (tool lap) a few years ago with a worn diamond wheel and got some very good advice via a chap on rec.crafts.metalworking regarding trueing the wheel which worked well so I'll dig it out in the next day or so and pass on the info. IIRC the wheels I have are metal matrix diamond wheels.

Reply to
David Billington

I have never tried it with mine, but I imagine it should be possible with a piece of steel held hard against the wheel. After all, it is not solid diamond, merely tiny grains set in resin, so firm pressure should embed the grains deeper into the resin allowing the latter to be scraped away. Let us know how you get on because I have three such wheels and will eventually need to flatten them.

Cliff Coggin.

Reply to
Cliff Coggin

I once asked the chap from Eternal about this, he suggested using a piece of silicon carbide grinding wheel to true AND clean a Diamond wheel. It was a few years ago so I could be wrong, now there's a novelty! T.W.

Reply to
the wizard

I found the advice I was given which is as follows, this was for a metal matrix wheel but I expect it will apply.

First (blue the wheel), typically on a surface grinder. To true the wheel we bought silicon or boron carbide blocks and just ran the machine over the block - dry cut, about .001 in to the block and dust collector on. After the wheel looked cleaned up we repeated this with a .0002 or 3 cut. Secondly, after you true the wheel, sharpen it. We generally found the mould makers polishing sticks, 220 grit or so held against the wheel, wet, would sharpen the diamonds a bit and clean out the excessive brass thus giving the effect of sharpening.

Reply to
David Billington

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