Power delivered (ignoring those nasty losses) is volts times amps. If
you need 110 watts in the welder, its 110V x 1A, or 220V x 0.5A. For the
same power delivered your 220v wiring only has to carry 1/2 the current
that 110v wiring does. For the same gauge wire you can provide twice the
"power" from a 220 v circuit that you can from a 110v circuit. 220v
wiring allows lighter gauge and/or longer wire and/or more power. This
is a very simple explaination, and I'm sure to get a flamed for it, but
that's the gist of it.
On 10 Nov 2004 15:18:11 -0800, the renowned firstname.lastname@example.org (Old
Since you're on aol, I'll assume you're in the US and are talking
about a residence. In the US and Canada, there is usually 240V present
at the service box in stand-alone homes. There are two 120V 60Hz
circuits (center-tapped 240V) and a neutral. Heavy appliances like
electric dryers and electric water heaters are wired in to the 240V or
connected with a big plug in the case of the dryer. Apartments and
commercial buildings often have 208 rather than 240 because they are
fed from 3-phase. (sqrt(3)*120 = 208).
L1 --------------------- <---x <---------x
N -------------------------- <---x 240VAC
L2---------------------- <---x <---------x
It's safe and feasible to install a 240V outlet in such a place, but
I'll let someone else answer on electrical code issues.
For myself (and not necessarily to code), I just added an
appropriately rated double breaker to the box, ran some appropriate
size wire (sweaty work, 'cause it's thick) and a dryer-style outlet.
If all you really have is 120, you can use a transformer, but it's big
and heavy and maybe expensive, and the input side draws twice the
current of the output side.
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
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