Hi how do you get the fuel out of balsa which methods do you fellow
modellers use ?
I had a pin hole in my fuel tank and it has pumped fuel into my fuse and the
landing gear supports have let go on the supports.
Fuel was 15% nitro seemed to eat through the dope , maybe it was not thick
Dean (outback OZ)
I've getting good results with the following routine when repairing a
1. Clean off bulk of fuel with acetone soaked paper towel.
2. Spray on K2R cleaner.
3. Clean off K2R residue with acetone soaked paper towel.
4. After balsa dries check to see if still oily. If so repeat steps 2 and 3.
5. Assuming you can't get caster oil totally out, paint balsa with
6. Cover with monokote.
Clean well with alcohol, I use the 91% found in drugstores, then apply
K2r and let set for several hours. Repeat the k2r as required until it'
clean. To keep wood from soaking up oil, get some yellow carpenters
glue and thin slightly with watet and brush it on the wood. I've used
this method for 20+ years and have never had it fail. I Always use it
to coat my firewall and surrounding areas. It's as good as, lighter
than and cheaper than epoxy
Dope is not fuel proof like other sealers. It is merely fuel resistant.
That "hot fuel proof" that you used to see on the bottles (Pactra?) was
referring to the exhause which had little alcohol or nitro left in the oily
1. K2R Equivalents here are similar to Goddard's Dryvleaner - most of the
cleaner type sprays that dry quickly to a white or light coloured powder
which sucks the stains out of porous materials.
2. Use brown paper and an iron = place brown paper over fuel soaked places
and run iron over outside - use several times to suck the oil up like paper
sucks up the fat in a packet of Fish & Chips......
3. "Kitty litter" applied liberally and left for a few days. i.e. any
material that has greater "blotting paper - sucking power" than the balsa
4. For more methods - Refer to the FAQ section on
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Dean, if you can't find K2R in Oz, you can make your own out of any solvent
that will dissolve the oil and cornstarch. In the past, I've used
denatured alcohol (ethanol made undrinkable), but probably acetone, MEK, or
other organic solvent would work. Make a slurry of starch and solvent and
paint it on the oily surface. Be careful, however, and do this in a
well-ventilated area and wear gloves resistant to the solvent, as a lot of
the stuff isn't good for your health. As the solvent dries, it carries the
oil with it through the cornstarch, where it's trapped. Then,
brush/vacuum/wipe the residue off. Repeat as necessary. when you've soaked
up as much oil as you can, paint the surface with a sealer such as
Balsarite. BTW, next time try painting your fuel tank area with thinned
epoxy. It's definitely fuel proof!
Another suggestion is to drill a small drain hole at the lowest point in
the fuel compartment and fuel proof the hole also. It will help reduce
the amout of fuel buildup and also let you know there is a problem.
Morris Lee wrote:
Use a heat gun in a WELL ventilated place. The oil is what is soake
into the wood the rest has already evaporated. The heat will draw ou
the oil and soak it up with paper towel as you go(plus the heat dry
the wood). THEN Epoxy thinned with alcohol will fuel proof it. Th
suggestion of drilling a small hale is a good one as well. The woo
will still appear to be stained but it will be dry and oil free so yo
can cover it again