2001 Ford Ranger help! "Fuel Pump"

Wife went to Bakersfield yesterday for a doctors visit. Ran fine. When she got out..wouldnt fire up. No fuel at the Schrader valve.
Had it towed home
The problem..is there is a full 15 gallons of gas in the tank and the truck pump will not pump any fuel.
When you turn on the key..there is no pump sound coming from the gas tank.
So with this in mind..I searched the web and the 2 Haynes books I have for data to diagnose the problem.
There is so much bullshit data on the Ranger..its impossible to find any good information
The Haynes books are not much better when it comes to fuel system.
2001 Ranger XLT, 3.0 "Not Flex Fuel"
1. There is a 20 amp fuse (good) in the power distribution box under the hood.
Next step is to test the fuel pump relay..and here lies the problem #1
Which one is it????
A web search turns up "K4" (no such markings in my distribution box) "Lower right hand relay" (empty socket)
etc etc etc.
Haynes doesnt show it either.
The next item is the Emergency Fuel Pump Shutoff switch, located on the passengers side, up against the firewall. Found it (not in the marked location in any manual/guide) and its not tripped. So I pulled the connector and measured voltage (7.5vts..which is a bit odd) and then jumpered the connector with a paperclip. Still no pump run. I left the jumper in place. One would think that that shock switch should be passing battery voltage..12.35 volts ...in and then out again.
There is several multiple wire disconnects between the fuse box and the fuel pump which is hidden from view on top of the ful fuel tank.
No manual/guide tells me what wire/wires or wire colors Im searching for between the fuel tank and the fuse box..or what color, or where the fuck they run. If I could know that the "Green/Yellow" were power to the pump...it would be a no brainer to test, close to the tank.
So unless one of you gentlemen have any idea of how to id and test the fuel pump relay (one of a shitload, all the same (2) types...or any other places to look..Im going to have to drain the gas tank and drop it. Which Im hoping not to have to do.
Ive never seen a fuel pump simply quit on arrival..and never pump again....so my gut feeling..is its electrical. They tend to get weaker and weaker..but never had one simply quit.
Also..anyone know of a place that sells fuel pumps for less than the $235!!!!!! that Autozone wants for theirs? CarQuest is about the same price. Any alternative suggestions?
Help!
Gunner
--

but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ford-ranger-service-manual
Mine is a 1991 with EEC-IV controls, so I can't give you too much help. I removed the bed to clean the pump when it stopped.
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wrote:

I nave the full manual from Ford for my '96 - has all the wire colours etc for that year. Get a subscription to Aldata and you can get all the information Haynes and Chilton manuals are a joke and a total waste of money.
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On 1/1/2014 1:44 AM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Trade her in for a newer model...
and then sell the van.
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I've fixed lots of stuff and can't remember the Ford pump distinctly. I think I localized the problem to the pump itself by pulling fuel through the line with a brake bleeder vacuum pump, which showed that the screen, tubing and filter weren't clogged. An in-line primer bulb for an outboard might work, it does on my tractor. jsw
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wrote:


The power to the pump for the first 3 seconds and during cranking SHOULD be 12 volts. If you don't have 12 volts at the inertia switch I woeld suspect a problem prior to the switch. To test the pump I would unplug the inertia switch and feed power directly to the fuel pump line at the switch. If the pump runs then, no use pulling the pump or dropping the tank. The 2001 has the regulator on the pump in the tank but does not have a PWM pump power controller as far as I know.
Check where the wiring harnes exits the cab and heads back to the tank - the wires have been known to fail within the first 6-8 inches - look for signs of charring.
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wrote:

No, there's a safety timer in the ECU Computer (or a little separate brain box...) that runs the fuel pump for a few seconds to get up pressure, and it runs constant while cranking. But if the engine hasn't started yet, when you let off the key it cuts the fuel pump. Once it sees clues like RPM's and oil pressure, it'll keep the pump running.
They don't want you stalled or wrecked with the key still on and the fuel pump still running - a leaking fuel line becomes a flaming gusher.
Same reason, it might take two people to get the truck started - Someone to try starting it while you've got an arm underneath to thump the bottom of the tank within the first second or so.
Note that the only good solution is a vehicle with an auxiliary fuel tank and a second in-tank pump. And it's always the big Main tank pump that fails and you have to drive off the 10-gallon Peanut tank till it gets fixed - and pray the other pump doesn't quit.
Price wise, if you've got AAA check with NAPA for 10% off. Though some of the rural stores bump you up onto the 'Full List Price' schedule because 'we have to ship it all in...' So know what it's really supposed to cost and fight for a realistic price - then whip out the ACSC card on them.

That sounds like a place where the wire is allowed to flex and fail. Look for a long enough unsupported chunk to play Double Dutch.
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If you live in snow country a plastic sheet 'sled' works fine for this, since rain doesn't hurt it, and it's better protection from stones. I keep one under the bed liner. jsw
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"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
<snip>

Rock Auto had some in the $120 range, not sure of the quality but their online parts lookup catalog seems pretty nice.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
RogerN
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RogerN wrote:

Ford had a habit of running the ground return right back to the battery ground. They put an inline connector right near the battery with the wire size of about 16awg. I have had problems with this connection. Of course my vehicle was a little older than yours, but it is an easy thing to check. John
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wrote:

ERROR Your first sentence was a question but it was ended with "!!!!!!" <loading English Teacher module>
Question 1: What is the optimal amount of punctuation marks used to end a sentence?
Answer 1: One. ALWAYS.
Question 2: What is the maximum amount of punctuation marks allowed at the end of a sentence?
Answer 2: One. ALWAYS. This applies to exclamation points ! and question marks ? equally.
Question 3: How smart does a person look when they load up on punctuation marks at the end of sentences?
Answer 3: You really don't want to know that.
Thank you.
Your English Teacher. <unloading English Teacher module>
</Nitpick Of The Day>
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Perhaps you have never seen how professional script and song writers punctuate their blogs;
Any. Way. They. Want!!
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wrote:

I refer you to Question 3 once again. <sigh>
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wrote:

Yippee Tie One On, pardner. <g>
Unfortunately, I haven't yet seen any ability to ship things via USPS, UPS, or FedEX, either. </ subtle hint #37>
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wrote:

I would also like the 422, please, when possible.

Sorry. I've been busy for the first time this Winter, so I thought everyone was.

G'luck, mon. I'm well aware of how much it sucks to be broke. Check your paypal acct. I'll prepay the shipping to help get you on your feet and so you can get to your jobs, then ship when you can afford it.
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

Those are old, antiquated, obscure rules back from the days when punctuation marks were is short supply, they don't grow on trees, you know. If you run low on punctuation marks, just download documents and delete the punctuation marks until you fill the computer back up with them.
RogerN
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Since we are picking nits, the use of the word 'amount' is incorrect in your post.
http://grammar.about.com/od/words/a/amount.htm
'Number' is the word you should have used.
John
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Check your Gmail....
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    Does the owner's manual have a hint?
    Is a hint printed on the cover over the relay box?
    If all else fails -- with someone else in the car to turn on and off the ignition -- have them turn it on with the hood up, and then tap on each relay with the handle of a screwdriver, and listen for the fuel pump to make a sound. If not, move to the next and repeat.
    Once you find it -- (and the tap would proably make it work for a little while), see whether there is another relay in the box of the same size serving some function which you can do without for a while, and swap the two. (Mark the suspect one with a sticker so you can identify it for sure when you get a couple of new ones. (A couple, so you can keep one in the glove box, along with a note as to which to replace next time.)
    If you can get the cover off the relay, you might be able to clean the contacts with a good contact cleaner -- or lacking that, an ignition file from the old days of points. :-)
    [ ... ]

    IIRC -- the fuel pump shares a power connector with the fuel gauge -- power comes in via one pin, goes through the motor to ground, and goes through the resistor array and wiper on printed circuit board back to the gauge.
    If you ever have to replace the pump. replace the fuel gauge sender at the same time. It is just as much trouble either way, and those senders do tend to wear out over time. (We've got one which constantly says the tank is "empty" until I get the tank out and swap the pump assembly. You can get the assembly with the pump, or just the pump to replace in the assembly. (Based on our '94 Explorer clone (Mazda Navajo).

    Contacts in the relay are the most likely. That was what was wrong with ours, when I was prepared to swap out the fuel pump to get a working fuel gauge. :-)

    Likely not the pump itself. Most likely the relay.
    Good Luck,         DoN.
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wrote:

Not on any I've ever seen, but I've only worked on several thousand vehicles, and several hundred fuel guages. The guage runs on regulated (generally 5-7 volt) power.

The fuel pump relay is in the fuse box by the battery, and is the one in the corner between the 2 larger relays. C1051. Between K1017 and 1016 On the short end of the relat box there are two small relays down the right side (trailer towing relay, ac clutch relay) the a large relay (ecm) then the fuel pump relat and an (empty) spot.

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