Problem with Lincoln Ranger 8 - no output

Blown fuse? I'd get down there and smell around -- if something burned up, even a few years ago, you'll still smell it. Nothing burned probably means cheap to fix.

GWE

No output could be all sorts of things from a popped breaker on the panel (free to fix!!) to a blown diode in the excite circuit (cheap) to burned windings (don't go there!) Nothing really to say until you get to look at the unit and test it out.

Manual is here:

This is a nice unit for small jobsite use. Not up to procuction work on bridges or pipelines but certainly a good one for truck repair or sitting in the back of the maintenaince truck.

If you aren't able to test it before you buy, I'd assume that you have fried some major comp> I have the opportunity to purchase a 3 year old Lincoln Ranger 8

On 1 Dec 2004 10:41:24 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net (Chuck Jurgens) spake the words:

Why not? Your request reminds me of the guys and gals who used to call into the body shop with questions on how much it would cost to fix their bent fender. Of course, they didn't say what make/model car, which fender, with/without trim/striping, or how bad the damage was (possible frame/quarterpanel/roof/glass involvement), either.

Possible problems: electrical, mechanical, electronic, combo of any of these 3 modes.

Possible problems: open circuit breaker, broken key on motor shaft going to generator section, bad electronic control circuit board, broken wire on stator/rotor/field, bad diode, loose wire, burnt resistor, cold solder joint, etc.

Possible repair costs: $0 to $2,000+.

Good enough, Chuck? ;)

------------------------------------------------------------- give me The Luxuries Of Life *

-------------------------------------------------------------

This machine has a three year warranty. I would check the manufacturing date. If it happens to be just under three years old I would get it to a Lincoln authorized shop and get it repaired under warranty. The manufacturing date is encoded into the serial number. The first two characters in the serial number, normally "U1" is the plant where the machine was made. The next two are the year, "01" would be 2001, and the next two are the month. I think the warranty may apply to the original owner, but if the manufacturing date is within three years, you won't even need to show a receipt to have it repaired.

If you have neither weld or auxilliary output, the problem is most likely in the rotating field circuit. This circuit includes the rotor, brushes, bridge rectifier, field capacitor, printed circuit board, control pot, etc. The cost to repair this machine could range from free, if the problem were just a bad connection, and you repair it yourself, to more than $1000.00 if a rotor would need to be replaced.

Good Luck,

Bob

I have another thought about this problem I wanted to share. It will normally not cause any damage to start this machine under load, providing that it is shut off within a reasonable amount of time if it doesn't build-up to its normal output.

If it were started under a heavy load and someone just walked away and didn't notice for some time that it wasn't producing output, the flashing circuit components on the PC board may have failed. If this has happend, the board will probably need to be replaced.

There are four large ceramic resistors on the PC board, the middle two are in the flashing circuit. If these are damaged this may be your problem. It is not a problem if the coating on these resistors is discolored or burned. It is normal for these resistors to get hot and burn the coating on the board, but if these resistors are open, the machine will not produce any output.

Bob

Some thngs to think about....

The running out of gas might be a place to start. Check for blown/tripped breakers-fuses.A burnt wire or corroded connection might cause this condition as much as a malfunctioning switch. Get a good volt-ohmmeter and get to work!

There is a tremendous voltage spike when a machine like this is stopped under load. This spike can wipe out many discreet and non discreet components.

That machine is an alternator based unit. Check for open circuit voltage on DC and AC. Should be in the 70+/- volt range. A manual will tell you what it should be at what RPM. This should tell you if the rectifier is working-or blocking output.(Spikes like to take out rectifiers) Even if welding output is blocked by the rectifier, the AC weld power and aux 110 and 220 outlets should function.

Athough the problem is rarely here in alternator machines, check the brushes and slip rings. You never know.

Put your meter probes on the back (wire end) of the brush and on the slip ring. There should be very little resistance. If the slip rings are brown-do not clean with any abrasive, although a spray of contact cleaner would not hurt. The brown is copper oxide and much more conductive than even a new "shiny" surface.

Black, grooved or burned rings must be resurfaced with a commutator stone (available from industrial outlets) or wood type sandpaper. Avoid all emery based products as the emery tends to embed itself in the soft copper and will wear your brushes out in no time.

If all wires, connections and switches work and no or very low welding power or aux power-the fields may have to be "flashed". Not very complicated, but must be done absolutely correctly, or your machine will be good nothing more than boat anchor material!!

Flashing is a procedure to "recharge" the residual magnetism in the exciter circuit. Kind of like priming a pump. This residual magnetism can deminish with long periods of inactivity.

If you get that far, let me know. Email direct if possible. Also let me know serial# or give me your specific electrical schematic diagram. This is one time that the exact diagram is needed. A typical diagram might work.Or it might not!

There is a diagram inside your machine. This is the one to use. It has a number and can be emailed, faxed, etc after contacting Lincoln-check their website.

Buying a used welder is always a crapshoot. Always a "pig in a poke"

Engine drives are always the most risky, due to the inclement weather, numerous parts required, vibration, etc.

My advice has always been, as far as any used equipment, is that if you can't "steal it"-don't buy it.

Don't be afraid to insult the seller. Keep in mind a bad rotor or stator (fields or armature) can cost 800-1200 to fix. Keep your risk to a minimum. A bearing running out even 10 thousandths can make some engine drive machines junk.

Any other questions-let me know. I'll guide you through this step by step, if needed.

Hope this helps a little

Good Luck

brad

Yes, I'm back!!!!

replying to Brad King, jason wrote: i have a ranger 9 that worked great about 2 years ago. it has bee inside my shop and will start and run great but produces zero power to the welding leads or outlets. the slip rings that the brushes are in contact with look kind of a dark color, almod black. is cleaning those up a good place to start?