2001 Ford Ranger help! "Fuel Pump"

Yippee Tie One On, pardner.

Unfortunately, I haven't yet seen any ability to ship things via USPS, UPS, or FedEX, either.

Reply to
Larry Jaques
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How about bypassing the pump with an aftermarket pump? Cure the symptom if not the cause!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

No, there's a safety timer in the ECU Computer (or a little separate brain box...) that runs the fuel pump for a few seconds to get up pressure, and it runs constant while cranking. But if the engine hasn't started yet, when you let off the key it cuts the fuel pump. Once it sees clues like RPM's and oil pressure, it'll keep the pump running.

They don't want you stalled or wrecked with the key still on and the fuel pump still running - a leaking fuel line becomes a flaming gusher.

Same reason, it might take two people to get the truck started - Someone to try starting it while you've got an arm underneath to thump the bottom of the tank within the first second or so.

Note that the only good solution is a vehicle with an auxiliary fuel tank and a second in-tank pump. And it's always the big Main tank pump that fails and you have to drive off the 10-gallon Peanut tank till it gets fixed - and pray the other pump doesn't quit.

Price wise, if you've got AAA check with NAPA for 10% off. Though some of the rural stores bump you up onto the 'Full List Price' schedule because 'we have to ship it all in...' So know what it's really supposed to cost and fight for a realistic price - then whip out the ACSC card on them.

That sounds like a place where the wire is allowed to flex and fail. Look for a long enough unsupported chunk to play Double Dutch.

Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)

I would also like the 422, please, when possible.

Sorry. I've been busy for the first time this Winter, so I thought everyone was.

G'luck, mon. I'm well aware of how much it sucks to be broke. Check your paypal acct. I'll prepay the shipping to help get you on your feet and so you can get to your jobs, then ship when you can afford it.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Evap control storage and valve.

Reply to
clare

I can vouch that the above works. My dodge van was dead in the desert, no gas / fuel pump noise, and some guy in a jeep had me crank it over while he really pounded hell out of the tank. The van started up and ran for two weeks before I had the fuel pump changed out.

The bad news is all the cheap replacement fuel pumps are made in Mexico and don't last. I went through two before I got one that seems to be reliable, but the year ain't over yet.

Reply to
Larry Shackelford

Agreed... fuel pumps are quickly approaching (or reached) inkjet printer cartridge ripoff territory. I bet they produce the damn things under $10 or so.

Incidentally, talking to a friend yesterday and this thread came up. He said he'd dealt with a bad pump recently, but it was raining and the car was sitting in a particularly disgusting looking puddle. No matter, he said he just beat on the floor in the tank area and it worked just the same.

Erik

Reply to
Erik

Sounds like the old "kerplunk-kerplunk" SU on the old mini. When it didn't start I'd just reach under the back fender with whatever was at hand and give it a little smack, and away it went. (sticky contact points)

Reply to
clare

A neighbor has a Ford Ranger - early 2000 era that would not crank and run sometimes. He replaced the fuel pump and filler neck assembly but it still was erratic. I swapped the fuel pump relay with the air conditioner relay and it has been cranking/running ok for a couple of years now. YMMV

Reply to
Mr.E

Does the owner's manual have a hint?

Is a hint printed on the cover over the relay box?

If all else fails -- with someone else in the car to turn on and off the ignition -- have them turn it on with the hood up, and then tap on each relay with the handle of a screwdriver, and listen for the fuel pump to make a sound. If not, move to the next and repeat.

Once you find it -- (and the tap would proably make it work for a little while), see whether there is another relay in the box of the same size serving some function which you can do without for a while, and swap the two. (Mark the suspect one with a sticker so you can identify it for sure when you get a couple of new ones. (A couple, so you can keep one in the glove box, along with a note as to which to replace next time.)

If you can get the cover off the relay, you might be able to clean the contacts with a good contact cleaner -- or lacking that, an ignition file from the old days of points. :-)

[ ... ]

IIRC -- the fuel pump shares a power connector with the fuel gauge -- power comes in via one pin, goes through the motor to ground, and goes through the resistor array and wiper on printed circuit board back to the gauge.

If you ever have to replace the pump. replace the fuel gauge sender at the same time. It is just as much trouble either way, and those senders do tend to wear out over time. (We've got one which constantly says the tank is "empty" until I get the tank out and swap the pump assembly. You can get the assembly with the pump, or just the pump to replace in the assembly. (Based on our '94 Explorer clone (Mazda Navajo).

Contacts in the relay are the most likely. That was what was wrong with ours, when I was prepared to swap out the fuel pump to get a working fuel gauge. :-)

Likely not the pump itself. Most likely the relay.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Not on any I've ever seen, but I've only worked on several thousand vehicles, and several hundred fuel guages. The guage runs on regulated (generally 5-7 volt) power.

The fuel pump relay is in the fuse box by the battery, and is the one in the corner between the 2 larger relays. C1051. Between K1017 and 1016 On the short end of the relat box there are two small relays down the right side (trailer towing relay, ac clutch relay) the a large relay (ecm) then the fuel pump relat and an (empty) spot.

Reply to
clare

There is also seems to be a cutoff switch that apparently is supposed to shut things down in the event of a crash. see

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Reply to
John B.

On my 1991 the relay that powers the computer stuck closed and drained the battery in a few days. It was hard to trace because lower-cost clamp-on DC ammeters drift too quickly to read low currents accurately and I didn't want to risk a good meter's current range directly in series with the battery. Afterwards I bought a bunch of cheap HF meters for such jobs.

The Ford electrical connectors can be disassembled by pulling out the red insert with fine needlenose pliers and moving back the hooks that retain the individual pins with a small screwdriver. They pull out through the soft rubber at the rear of the connector. Autozone sells replacement pins.

When I was looking to buy or borrow a breakout box a mechanic told me they aren't necessary and to push a straightened paper clip in along the wire to measure the voltage on a connector pin.

A printout of the Alldata schematic was nearly as useful as the factory shop manual, and easier to follow.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Sewing "T" pins are perfect for this, sliding right in next to the wire without hanging on, or risking damage to the seal, can easily be bent as necessary, and the "T" head works very well with Alligator clips.

A little plastic storage tub of 50 goes for like $3.49.

Erik

Reply to
Erik

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