Forging carving gouges ?

Hi -
I'm looking for pointers on forging wood carving gouges. I have the Larson book which has a lot of good info, but
doesn't cover gouges, and I've looked at Weyger's book which has examples of making a gouge, but only his conical profile style.
What I would really like to do is make gouges to match the Sheffield list, and that have forged bolsters. I do have the capability to machine a swage block. Finding some additional instruction or examples would save me a lot of experimenting.
Thanks, Gary
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Glowell, I hope you know what you are getting into. If you do not have any forging skills, particularly tool forging this is a tough place to start as a LOT of control will be required to get anything worthwhile. Swages could certainly help with shaping gouges. Allow for oversized forgings as a lot of material will be lost when cold working, heat treating and final finishing. Good luck dude.
Glen G.
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Hi Glen,
I've been forging as a hobbiest for about three years now. Mostly decorative stuff, and the CABA exercises including forge welding, and some simple heat treating - cold chisels and paring knives from O-1.
I agree that it's major challenge moving into tool making, which is why I'm trying to do as much research up front as I can. I'm just not finding much on the web, or in the few books that I have. I've seen some references that Weygers' book may have more relevant stuff than I remember.
Thanks for the encouragement and suggestions.
Cheers, Gary

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Glowell, I have a copy of the Weygers book but i was always more impressed with the illustrations than the information contained. It sounds like you have a good start and are ready to dive in. It sounds like you understand the basics of heat treatment? If I were you I would make a few flat chisels first to practice forming the shoulders and tangs. Personally, I favor W-1 or W-2 over O-1. Both are great steels, it's just that O-1 is more finicky during forging. It has a tendency to crack if you forge it a little to hot or a little to cold. The "W" series steels are much more forgiving and perform just as well in a finished tool. My other suggestion is that you forge the working end of chisels 15% -20% oversize. Allow PLENTY of material for cold working so you can get through the forging scale and still have a tool left. Also, if you try to harden a tool with a very thin cutting edge you run the risk of a failed heat treatment. It is a pain to grind after a tool is hardened but sometimes this is the best way. I don't think there are a great many good books on this subject. In the end the truth reveals itself at the forge.
Forge ahead, Glen
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Forging woodworking tools is far beyond my own experience, but I have done some reading and attended some demonstrations that are relevant to the subject.
If I were planning to start such a project, I would use Weyger's book as a jumping off point. I'd start by trying to do exactly the gouge he describes, and not varying that one whit.
One demonstrator (sorry, I don't remember who) showed using a flea-market claw hammer to make a handled gouge - like a cooper's tool. He did this to avoid the work of making the eye. He cut off the claws and worked the head to the shape he wanted.
Bruce
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