Looking for a UPS Design That Doesn't Overheat Batteries

Our company has had a long-standing problem where UPS batteries will at various points in their lifetime suddenly overheat, sometimes catastrophically to the point where the battery casing starts to melt and you can actually smell the gases from the battery leaking. So far we have been lucky to catch such thermal events with temperature sensors but it has always been a goal of mine to better understand why this happens, and to find some UPS system where it can be avoided entirely. To date, we have seen these problems with APC Symmetra tower, Symmetra rackmount, and SmartUPS.

After working with an electrician, I have a theory about why this is happening, and if correct, the theory suggests a different design for UPS systems that would avoid the problem. I am hoping some manufacturer has already implemented this idea and someone can refer me to their products.

On all of the UPS systems we use generic "brick" batteries are joined together in a series, then the leads from the ends of these battery chains are connected to the UPS. The problem is that batteries rarely fail all together. If a 12V battery should be considered discharged and not useful at around 10V, and you have two 12V batteries joined in series, what happens when one of the batteries maintains a full charge at 12V but the other battery in the series starts to lose its ability to hold charge and slips below some critical level? From the point of view of the UPS, it doesn't see anything about the state of individual batteries. The UPS only sees that the total voltage of the two 12V batteries in series has fallen from 24V to 22V.

Maybe an electrical engineer can step in here and explain what is happening, but my pure guess is that to maintain the same power output, an increased amount of current probably has to flow through the batteries. That creates problems with heating for the "good" battery, which is still measuring 12V. Now that 12V is receiving too much current, overcharges, overheats, and at some point the casing of the battery starts to melt. I haven't done enough experimentation to determine if it is the good battery or bad battery that is overheating. To be honest, in such situations I have often seen evidence that both batteries start to melt. Perhaps this is nothing more than one battery being in physical proximity to the overheating battery and therefore gaining heat from its physical contact. The only thing that is common to all cases is that one of the two batteries has discharged and should have been replaced before the overheating event took place.

Regardless of the actual mechanism for the overheating we are observing, it seems to me that the obvious solution is to design UPS systems to physically connect to each 12V battery individually. Forget connecting multiple batteries in series, at least don't do that at the battery itself. By connecting to and monitoring individual batteries, now the UPS can see when an individual battery falls below some critical voltage threshold and put it into a special recharge state (not put any load on it). If the battery fails to recharge, the UPS can declare the battery defective and can signal the condition by an LED on the battery's compartment. If there is a network attached monitoring system, the UPS can send an e-mail.

Aside from increasing safety and utility of the monitoring system, such a design would allow much easier re-use of off-the-shelf batteries, improving ease-of-use in making battery changes and lowering cost. While I realize that APC in particular has no desire to make anything regarding batteries non proprietary, maybe some other vendor has a UPS design that puts a direct monitoring circuit on each individual 12V brick battery, thus avoiding the overheating problem I have described?

Any information on why this overheating takes place, how to avoid it, and any referrals to third party UPS products that employ a more robust design are appreciated.

Reply to
Will
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IMOE the main reason for the failure of SLA/VRLA batteries in SOHO UPS units is the charging regime - no more, no less.

Recovery after a discharge is a tradeoff. Do you want minimum recovery to (substantially) full charge to best position you for a possible follow-up outage, or a leisurely recovery which treats the battery properly?

The bad news is that you don't get to choose - the UPS manufacturers have made that decision for you and have opted for the over-zealous rate. This is usually compounded by an excessively high float voltage. To further shorten the life of the batteries, the regime is often one of current-limited (too high) constant voltage (also too high) charging. An example of a far better regime is set out in the data sheet for the Unitrode/TI UC2906/3906 SLA charge controller chips. Unfortunately - and yes, there seems to be only bad news - it is usually impossible to splice in a better charging system without causing the UPS' monitoring circuits to go apeshit.

Indeed it would be good sense to monitor the individual batteries, but these are price-sensitive products in the SOHO sizes. Certainly there is scope to add a monitor which reports on voltage differential.

You are mixing up discharge and charge in the above, UIAVMM.

By the time one battery in a series string needs replacing, they all should be replaced. You create the exact situation you referred to above by replacing one of a series string.

The other consideration that compounds battery heating is the way they are tightly packed into the case. Again, short of mounting them outside - as some users do - there is little that can be done in mitigation as there simply isn't room to provide ventilation or additional conduction paths.

Both of the UPS units I have here - 1000VA (5x12V) and 300VA (2x12V) - have the batteries almost shoe-horned into their place. In fact, there is no way a shoehorn could fit in there between them. What I have done, though, is re-engineer the charging circuitry to "better" recovery and float charging conditions.

Reply to
budgie

Could you reformulate the above statements as a set of requirements I can put into a requirements document for a new UPS? I'm guessing that the requirements would be something similar to the following, but I am hoping you will make these statements more precise:

- UPS should use a recharge / recovery scheme that maximizes battery lifetime rather than minimizing recharge times, or should as a worst case allow this to be a user configurable option.

- UPS should use an appropriate float voltage for the batteries it uses.

- UPS should allow the use of deep cycle batteries.

- UPS should provide a way to use an appropriate topping charge every six months with the battery.

If I take an older UPS gel-cell battery which is in series as 2 x 12V, and I test each 12V and find that one is giving a good 12V reading when charged and the other never goes above 10V, why can't I just replace the dead 10V battery with a fresher 12V? How is replacing the dying battery promoting overheating?

Reply to
Will

Ah, we've discovered the problem with your existing UPSen.

First, replace the batteries on a regular schedule, before they fail.

Second, battery strings must be matched, so replace all the batteries in a string at the same time.

Please note: You haven't specified your requirements very well. The answers for hundreds of kilowatts of UPS for a stock exchange and a few kilowatts for a local business are significantly different, and you are getting answers all over the map.

Reply to
William P.N. Smith

Sounds expensive, vs periodically testing and replacing any that don't pass the test.

Sounds expensive. How well-matched must they be?

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Quite well - since two batteries permanently connected in series are acting as a single battery, all cells will have the same "life experience". Chances are that when one cell fails, most of others are nearing end-of-life.

Reply to
Peter Bennett

There are exceptions to this. If one cell shorts because of some bridging across the seperator, it may be caused by sediment buildup in the bottom of the cell jar. This sediment *could* also be building up in other cells at the same rate, but there's no guarantee. One cell could also be damaged from some contaminant getting in that wouldn't affect others (using high mineral water for watering the cell is one way they can become contaminated). If the battery was left deeply discharged for a while, a 'tree' of sulphate may have formed in one or more cells bridging the separator, but not formed in others before recharging (the importance of not leaving the battery discharged for too long).

Certainly is preferable to have all cells in series, no series-parallel connections. In series they all have the same charge/discharge current.

Now, if all the cells are nearing the number of cycles the manufacturer rates them for, and one shorts, then yes, the others are probably not long for this world either. That's one reason to use an ah meter and replace all the cells at the same time. Otherwise its pretty hard to keep track of which ones are getting old and which ones are still 'young'.

Of the many shorted cells I've seen, I have yet to see one 'run away' if the cells are all wired in series. The result is usually the cell takes a charge but quickly discharges again in a few hours. If only a single string of series cells, the two volts available internally to the shorted cell is the only voltage available to generate short-circuit current and the resistance of a 'short' is actually fairly high. When loading the battery, the shorted cell actually reverses polarity and terminal voltage of the battery drops to the minimum much sooner than expected.

Now, if you wire two or more strings in parallel, then when one cell shorts it not only discharges itself, but the string its in now becomes a lower voltage battery in parallel with one or more higher voltage batteries.

*This* can become dangerous pretty fast since the energy of all the other parallel strings tries to 'charge' the lower voltage string. And all that energy goes into heat & hydrogen.

daestrom

Reply to
daestrom

I doubt that.

We might somehow come up with a "dangerous" example of this kind, but it seems to me that the electrical energy in a battery is insufficient to raise its temp more than a few degrees. For example, a Diehard might store 1 kWh (3400 Btu) and weigh 30 pounds. If it contained half water, the temp rise might be 3400/15 = 226 F. The water might boil, but it seems unlikely to explode, even if every cell in the battery shorts at the same instant.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

If your car battery won't crank when it's -20F out, do what I do: short the battery briefly by bridging the terminals with the handles of a pair of pliers. The initial Short-circuit current won't be large at that temperature, but the battery quickly warms up, so don't tarry. About two seconds will raise the battery temperature to where it will crank the cold engine just fine. Only a small fraction of the energy raised the battery temperature 20F or so. Imagine the rise if all the energy went to heat!

You came for advice, and you got it from people with experience. If you value your "logic" more than their experience, have it your way.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Avins

And you will want to pray that the pliers do not weld to the terminals. That would be an experience!

surfnturf

Reply to
surfnturf

I have heard this procedure called "boot strapping" like the battery pulls itself up by its own bootstraps.Never had to do it but I guess its good to know in an emergency.

Reply to
digitalmaster

Anyone heard the old story about the coathanger wire being used to jump a starter, and it welds to the terminal through a poor fellow's wedding ring? I think this one dates back to the 60's when an inebriated wedding guest lost his car keys and attempted to short the starter solenoid with a coathanger wire. Apparently he got the high-tension leads, and his wedding ring turned bright red from being part of the circuit.

Being single has it's advantages sometimes.

Reply to
JoeSP

For just that reason, I don't own a wedding ring. Been happily married for over 30 years now and I don't need a ring to remind me.

Vaughn

Reply to
Vaughn Simon

I agree with Nick. The pliers would get hot, not the battery. Once tried to start a high compression motor at 40 below. Turned over a couple of times, then there was a loud crack under the hood. Batery case failed from frozen electrolyte. My assumption was that partial discharge lowered specific gravity, allowing the electrolyte to freeze. Certainly did not happen because the battery was "warmer".

surfnturf

Reply to
surfnturf

I wrote:

This is pretty funny. I disagree with you. The lower the load resistance, the more heat ends up in the battery.

Nick

Reply to
nicksanspam

Have you compared the load resistance to the internal resistance of the battery? That will pretty much indicate a number of things, among them

1) The efficiency of the battery as a storage system (hence a great deal of effort goes towards producing a battery with low internal resistance). 2) The ratio of disipated heat internal to external.

Which leads to the question of why (or _how_) would anyone use a starting battery that came even close to dissipating as much heat internally as the energy it provided to the load???

Even more interesting is to compare the mass of the battery to the mass of the pliers supposedly used to short the battery, and then consider the heat distribution. By the time the battery could warm up more than a few degrees, those little pliers are going to be red hot!

Your story doesn't hold enough water to grow anything...

Reply to
Floyd L. Davidson

Cranking the engine would be far more desireable than shorting the battery. This would dissapate energy in the engine, heating up the cylinder walls and oil - right where heat is really needed. This is part of the reason why the engine starts after a few tries when it is severely cold and the battery is is good shape. John

Reply to
JohnR66

On Thu, 08 Jun 2006 01:19:56 GMT, "JohnR66" Gave us:

Igniting fuel/air mixture is almost always the reason an engine heats. They call it internal combustion 4 stroke engine function.

Merely cranking the engine without a fuel charge or ignition thereof will barely raise its temperature. Particularly at the rotational speeds that a starter motor offers. Likely less than a degree or two over the starting ambient.

Reply to
Roy L. Fuchs

Reply to
no one that you know
[Everything I stated and quoted... deleted. Not one word of it is referenced in the following response.]

Only as a means of starting the engine, which of course shorting the battery won't do at all. It is *not* a way to heat an engine as you are implying with the following statements.

Cylinder walls are *not* going to get much heat from that! Certainly not enough to affect the ability of the engine to start.

And BTW, the cylinder walls are not where the heat is needed. Heat is needed in the air/fuel mixture loaded into the combustion chamber. Of course the temperature of the cylinder walls will affect that to some very small degree, but it is of almost no significance compared to the temperature of the air intake, which is where heat should be applied to assist starting a cold engine. The reason cylinder wall temperature is insignificant is because the fuel/air mixture is in contact with it for only milliseconds, which is not enought time for heat to be transfered to or from the mixture.

I've never noticed any tendency to take a few more tries when cold as opposed to warm. Second, if you have a cold engine that is *not* going to start, it takes a great amount of heat applied to the engine block to give results, while something as small as a 60 watt light bulb keeping the air intake manifold warm will allow vehicles to start at obnoxiously low temperatures (e.g.,

-65F and colder).

Block heaters are of course commonly used though! But that is because they keep the lubrication warm too. Without that it may take 20 minutes, depending on just how cold the engine is, to get sufficient lubrication, and until then the wear on the engine is extreme.

Reply to
Floyd L. Davidson

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