ufh

Now i know its a electrical engineering group but plumbers are electricians with their brains kicked in arnt they

I am considering installing UFH in a bathroom, the arear to be warmed is 8 square meters my plan is to run the boiler flow pipe (22mm) to two

zone valves one of which runs the whole houses radiators and the other is to run to the bathroom in 22mm where it is reduced to 10mm JG speedfit for the UFH loop and back on to the 22mm return to the boiler.

The boiler is Worcester 28i junior (non condensing) and brand new.

after the pipes are in it is to be tilled

My question is by reducing it to 10mm will this provide sufficient heat

restriction so as I dont have the full heat of the boiler on the floor tiles?

i.e. I dont want to cause them to crack through thermal shock.

I am not a qualified plumber but have a few years of experience in domestic systems

Thanks for any advice

Martyn

Now i know its a electrical engineering group but plumbers are electricians with their brains kicked in arnt they

I am considering installing UFH in a bathroom, the arear to be warmed is 8 square meters my plan is to run the boiler flow pipe (22mm) to two

zone valves one of which runs the whole houses radiators and the other is to run to the bathroom in 22mm where it is reduced to 10mm JG speedfit for the UFH loop and back on to the 22mm return to the boiler.

The boiler is Worcester 28i junior (non condensing) and brand new.

after the pipes are in it is to be tilled

My question is by reducing it to 10mm will this provide sufficient heat

restriction so as I dont have the full heat of the boiler on the floor tiles?

i.e. I dont want to cause them to crack through thermal shock.

I am not a qualified plumber but have a few years of experience in domestic systems

Thanks for any advice

Martyn

Are the tiles ceramic? Are ceramic tiles really susceptible to cracking under the temperature variations you will cause?

Do you have any sort of controls to control water temp or water flow?

I am informed that thermal shock is possible they are ceramic and 11mm thick as for the controls i was thinking that a radaitor valve works on the principal of closing the lock shield slightly there by reducing the flow, that is my reason for using 10mm pipe ie the reduction from 22mm to 10mm would severly reduce flow and temperature.

I could very well be wrong! but i hope not.

Cheers

Matyn

You could try posting this to alt.home.repair

Hi Martyn,

I have done a fair amount of work with a firm called warmafloor and they install the pipework in a layer of screed that sits on some floor insulation, the floor finish can be anything you like on top but ceramic is best and the darker the colour the better the radiant heat output from the tiles.

Most installs use 20mm hepolite pipe and if you have only one zone then you can control it with a thermostatic valve which senses the returned heat and opens the valve accordingly, you will most likely have to install a small circulation pump (honeywell etc) which you can run off a room stat (bathroom rated remember!) as the length of pipework required would more than likely reduce the flow capabilities to make it viable to use the system pump only.

Hope that helps a little!

I may be able to get hold of a photo of a fitted manifold if you require as you can then see what bits you need!

I am sure 10mm speedfit would work if you were stuck for height but I would definitely use the thermovalve and pump to get it functioning properly.

I hope that helps!

miniman