How I sorted my red, white and blue enclosure build without wasting filament

Nov 01, 2026 Last reply: 11 hours ago 4 Replies

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eli.lowry_1951

I did a two-tone version of the same enclosure last month and the plate-sorting trick is what saved me too. My first attempt I just painted the parts in the slicer and ended up with a flush pile after every color swap that nearly filled the poop chute on a long run. Splitting…

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Finished my patriotic AD5X enclosure remix over the weekend and figured I'd share how I got clean color separation, since it took me a couple of failed plates to figure out the workflow. First thing I did was go through every part in the slicer and physically drag them onto separate plates by color. Don't just assign colors and hope for the best, actually group them. Once each plate only had one color on it, I set the filament per plate instead of per object, and purge waste basicly disappeared. A couple of gotchas worth knowing before you start. Check your hardware against the printed parts before you commit to a full print run. I mocked everything up dry with the screws from my kit and found a few were too short to bite properly, so instead of ordering new ones I just scaled one spacer down along its length and reprinted it. Took ten minutes and the whole assembly pulled tight. That kind of on-the-fly fix is half the reason I even bother printing these mods myself.



One last tip if you go multi-color: lay everything out on the bench grouped by color before you slice anything. You'll spot duplicate parts and mirrored pieces you'd otherwise print twice, and it makes assembly way faster because you're not hunting through a pile for the right bracket. Anyway, mine's running now and the neighbors allready think it's some kind of Dutch tribute, so I'm printing stars to slap around the top edge and settle the debate.


I did a two-tone version of the same enclosure last month and the plate-sorting trick is what saved me too. My first attempt I just painted the parts in the slicer and ended up with a flush pile after every color swap that nearly filled the poop chute on a long run. Splitting everthing onto one plate per filament dropped the flushes down to just the transitions between plates. One thing that bit me was forgetting that the door frame parts need the same orientation on the plate as they sit on the printer. I flipped a couple to fit better and the layer lines ended up running the wrong way where the hinge screws clamp down, so they cracked on the second tighten. Reprinted those flat and they have been fine since. On the hardware check, same deal here. My kit came with M3s that were a hair short for the corner brackets, and I only found out after the whole thing was assembled and the side panels would not pull flush. I ended up reaming the holes slightly with a drill bit so the screws could seat deeper, wich worked but I would rather have caught it on the bench like you did.

Mine is grey and black so nobody is confused about my allegiances, but those stars along the top edge sound like they will finish it off nicely.

I have to push back on the reaming fix. Drilling the holes out in printed parts thins the plastic right around the screw, and on corner brackets that's exactly where the load is already pulling across the layer lines. When my screws came up short I just bought a pack in the right length for pocket change, since a printed part is easy to make stronger but you can't add material back once it's gone. Maybe fine on grey ABS where nothing clamps hard, but I wouldn't trust it under a tightened hinge. On a separate note, is anyone else's top edge sagging after a few weeks or is mine carrying too much weight?

Still figuring this stuff out myself, so the bit about scaling one part shorter instead of reprinting the whole thing is exactly what I needed to see. I broke a clip on a small project last week and printed the whole file again when I probably coud have just changed one number. When you shrink a part like that, does the software let you squish just one direction and leave the rest alone? Also curious how you plan to stick the stars on, glue or are they printing them with little pegs on the back?

Update: to be clear on the fix from before, I scaled the spacer down, I never drilled anything out. That point about thinning the plastic right where the load runs across the layer lines is a fair warning though. Reading it got me wondering though, when you shrink just one dimension, does the hole spacing still land where the mating part expects it, or do you usally have to nudge the bracket too?

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