Recurve blank with swedge and skeletonized tang

Nov 01, 2026 Last reply: 15 hours ago 3 Replies
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The thing that jumps out first is the recurve itself. Grinding a recurve is one of those shapes many makers put off for years, and the maker admits to feeling nervous before starting this one. Judging by the result, and by the maker's own belief that it came out well, that nervousness did not hold anything back. This is a customer knife, and the grind looks ready to earn its keep.



The blank is full-tang and still unhandled, so the work is at an in-progress stage. The profile is a drop or clip point with a swedge running along the spine, and the handle section carries circular skeletonizing holes. Those holes serve pin attachment and weight reduction at the same time, which strikes me as a tidy bit of dual-purpose layout.



The finish work is where the details really stand out. The primary bevels and the swedge surfaces carry a satin ground finish, and the maker describes the belt finish as silky smooth. Against that, the flats and the ricasso have a darker, textured or etched look, so the polished lines and the matte areas contrast nicely. A small etched maker's logo sits on the ricasso, which is a restrained touch that suits the blade.



Since the knife is a work in progress, the handle is the obvious open question. How the scales will sit over those skeletonized holes, and whether the dark flats will stay as-is or get further treatment, are both still to be settled. If the finished knife matches the standard of the grind, the customer is getting a very good blade.


I think the decision to leave the bevels satin while etching the flats darker is the smartest call here. The contrast makes the grind line read clearly even on a recurve, where the curve can hide geometry. The trade-off is that etched flats will show fingerprints and need more care, but for a customer knife that crisp separation is worth it.

Curious about the skeletonizing holes in the handle section. Since they are there for pin attachment as well as weight reduction, how does the maker plan to align the pins through the holes when drilling the scales? On a full-tang blank with holes already cut, getting everything lined up before handle work starts seems like the tricky part to me.

One variation worth considering: carrying that darker etched finish onto the spine between the swedge and the flats, so only the cutting surfaces stay bright. It would tie the ricasso logo and the textured areas into one continuous look, and it would save the satin finish from wear on the parts that get handled most. Could be striking on a recurve profile.

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