I myself would solder them. Using a black beauty 150 watt iron and a head
about the size of your wrist.
Perhaps you can get a solder head for the blowtorch.
I'd consider making a fold joint. If you are shielding with it then you don't
want a seam down the line that is just a melted zone. Have the melts before
and after or only on the outside.
Only on the outside - make two L shapes - but up the edges so you have a small
section in the seam and crimp then solder. Or do a lap joint and solder both
sides as one overrides the other to seal off the joint.
Remember lead vapor is not nice. Keep it off the hands also.
The application is not known - but roofing companies that do copper crimp
standing seams. They have the hand tools and the lead pots and irons.
John Asop wrote:
Actually, I was hoping to maybe epoxy the pieces together if it is possible.
What this is is part of a lead container made up of 1/4" lead. Someone
decided at one point to cut out a square slice out of one of the sides. I
still have the piece that was cut out and it is only small and doesn't weigh
much. With this cut out of the side, the container is pretty much useless
and I first thought about welding it back in. I didn't want to use solder
as the container is 100% pure lead and I want to keep it hat way. I don't
feel good about heating it for fear of melting away the area where I want to
weld in the cut piece.
Unfortunately, the lead is in a state of decay (MUCH oxidation all over the
box), so I have been trying to handle it as little as possible and plan to
place it inside 2-3 mil plastic bags once I have the piece back in place. I
will still be able to use the box in the bags.
I have used 2 part store bought epoxies on other types of metals with pretty
good success in the past and wondered, if I lapped over the joints and
applied epoxy between them, would the mend hold? If epoxies can work, which
would be the best?
Thanks in advance and thanks for the initial reply.
John - plumbing solder is 100% lead (now harder to find). Electronic solders
are various alloys and 100% tin is great for Aluminum soldering. Since EPA
pushes for NO lead plumbing - you might have to go to a roofing/gutter shop
for pure lead solder.
John Asop wrote:
Yes, I used to have a 250 watt black beauty soldering iron that
had a 2" diameter tip on it. It was heavy and held the heat like
fire. I used it in making lead boxes, thus 100% lead and same thickness
for custom lab built X-ray tubes and another larger one with
lead and 2" of paraffin for a neutron gun. But that was in another life.
jim beam wrote:
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