I've got an old fence I want to salvage some pipe from. It's a two rail fence made out of 2 3/8 drill pipe. I've cut the top rail off of the uprights, but I'm left with a short stub of pipe welded on every
12 feet. I need to cut those off.
I can do it with a cutoff wheel and a grinder, but it takes a while. Anybody got a good way to get these off pretty fast? It doesn't have to be that pretty.
You could get most of it off quite quickly with a plasma cutter or O/A torch. If you aren't scared of warping, you can try a flushing tip on your torch. If you have an arc gouging gun, you could also scarf off the welds, that's quick and dirty.
You used to scarf those off with a big Gas Axe with a curved tip, so the cutting oxygen jet was parallel to the surface. Hit the Oxygen lever, and the offending material starts to disappear at a rapid rate, and rather neatly if you had the technique down.
I watched a Maestro clean up the old weld from the baseplate of a light post, and then we chopped off the bottom three inches of the post where it rusted out and welded it back together again. (I putz around, but when it's structural work I let someone who welds all day and has the certs to prove it do the work.) And lots of Zinc Rich Primer before painting.
Wonder if they make curved tips for plasma cutters...? (Miller says to use the "extended" or "gouge" tips.)
Not sure how that metallurgical mix would react to mechanical cutting. Were it me, I'd just take a cutting torch to it. Realize you will probably have some blowback from scale on the inside of the wall, and cut it at an angle rather than 90 deg. to the pipe. At an axis parallel to a line drawn through the center. That way, you will just bounce off the scale, and actually get a prettier cut. Watch out for the drops. That stuff is heavy. I used to work on oil rigs.
That would be some kind of coolant. I recently discovered a spray can product made by Union Butterfield which works great and is very portable. It's basically a drilling fluid but it would work fine for keeping a sawzall blade cool too.
I think you should try cutting this with a torch. You might nick the parent pipe a little, but you will rapidly learn and gain confidence. It should be an order of magnitude faster than a sawzall.
If you don't have the torch and you do have the sawzall, a decent inverter and your pickup or car will work out fine. I've had best results with cutting steel with sawzalls if I drip a bit of oil into the cut. My brother the electrican put a 2KW inverter in his service truck to avoid having to bring his 5kw generator out to the job site. Uncle has a
1.5KW inverter with anderson powerpole connectors so he can connect to his truck battery to run the elevation motor on our band mill.
I'm a wimp, only have a 300 watt in my car connected by cigaratte lighter socket to run camera, laptop, and battery chargers on trips. Figure out what your saw needs and double it for startup as a minimum
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
My gut reaction is that this will not work in a lathe. I think it will only work if this is a very stiff pipe (think short pipe) and you turn it down very slowly to avoid the tool jamming against the protrusion.