I had many of the same questions and found this guideline, and while it
does not directly provide answers, it contains much useful information:
CONTRACTOR'S STANDARD PIPE & FITTING SPECIFICATION
(1) All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal
concentric with hole.
(2) All pipe is to be hollow throughout entire length. Do not use
holes of different length than the pipe.
(3) All pipe is to be of very best quality, perfectly tubular or
(4) All acid proof pipe is to be made of acid proof metal.
(5) OD of all pipe must exceed the ID otherwise the hole will be on
(6) All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole so that
water, steam, or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
(7) All pipe is to be supplied without rust, as this can be more
readily put on at the job site.
(8) All pipe is to be cleaned free of any covering such as mud, tar,
barnacles, or any form of manure before putting up, otherwise it will
make lumps under the paint.
(9) All pipe over 500 feet long must have the words "long pipe"
clearly painted on each end so that fitter will know that it is long pipe.
(10) Pipe over two miles long must also have these words painted in
the middle so that fitter will not have to walk the full length of
pipe to determine if it is long pipe or not.
(11) All pipe over six inches in diameter is to have the words "large
pipe" painted on it, so that the fitter will not use it for small
(12) All pipe closures are to be open on one end.
(13) All pipe fittings are to be made of the same stuff as the pipe.
(14) No fittings are to be put on pipe unless specified. If you do,
straight pipe becomes crooked pipe.
(15) Fittings come in all sort of sizes and shapes. Be sure to
specify the direction you are going when ordering.
(16) Fittings come bolted, welded or screwed -- always use screwed.
They are the best kind.
(17) Flange must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for
bolts quite separate from the big hole in the middle.
(18) If flanges are to be blank or blind, the big hole in the middle
must be filled with metal.
(19) All flanges must be cast or forged of the very best iron metal,
close and grained, free from blow holes, lumps, cavities, pock marks,
pin pricks, and warts, otherwise we can't use them.
(20) Gaskets are to be used to fill spaces between flanges.
(21) Gaskets are to be made of metal, rubber, [plastic, paper or some
kind of goop -- do not use cow or sheep manure, it cracks when it
(22) All bolts are to be screwed.
(23) All bolts must have a head on one end and a nut on the other.
(24) Bolts without heads are to be furnished as studs.
(25) Studs without heads are to be screwed all over and have two nuts
which is standard. Studs with three nuts are not to be used since
they would be odd.
(26) All nuts are to be furnished in sacks. Sacks must be whole and
sound, minimum two nuts per sack. Paper sacks will not be tolerated.
(27) All piping must be installed with valves.
(28) All valves must have an opening on each end with a flapper in
the middle that goes up and down or sideways when you turn the wheel or
crank so that it will open or close, otherwise the stuff will run out
(29) Valves are to be furnished by the kind required as follows:
Ball valves are to have a ball inside
Gate valves are to have a gate inside
Globe valves are to have a globe inside
Check valves are to have a check inside
Angle valves are to have an angle inside
Plug valves are to have a plug inside
Diaphragm valves art to have a diaphragm inside.
(30) Ball valves are not to be used anywhere with a female
(31) Diaphragm valves are to be used with a female connection.
(32) All completed piping lines must go somewhere and connect to
something. The fitter is required to verify this before turnover.
(33) All pipes shorter than 1/8" are uneconomical in use, requiring
many joints. They are generally known as washers.
(34) Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include:
Conduit, tube, tunnel and drain. Use only genuine pipe.
(35) Scottish Regiments in the Army use Army pipes in unusual ways.
These are not approved of in engineering circles.
(36) When ordering 90 degree or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify
right hand or left hand, other wise you will be going the wrong
(37) Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill
or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipe for going uphill the
product will flow the wrong way.
(38) All coupling should have either right hand or left hand thread,
do not mix the threads, otherwise, as the coupling is being
screwed on one pipe, it's being screwed off the other.
(39) Joints in pipes for water must be water tight. Those in pipes
for compressed air however need only be air tight.
(40) Lengths of pipe may we welded or soldered together. This method
is not recommended for concrete or earthenware pipes.
(41) Pipe over 5 feet in diameter shall have an arrow* painted at 10
foot intervals with the word EXIT.
(42) When such pipe is longer than 20 feet all the arrows* must point
in the same direction.
* It has been suggested that the arrow(s) point to the open end
of the pipe.This option is under study by the committee.
what I was needing is information on various sizes of pipe and
thicknesses as far as how long it take to butt weld each joint. For
example 6" schedule 80 pipe form start to finish how long should it
take to butt weld that joint 6010 root pass and 7018 fill and cap.
weld pattern (bias,
To give you an answer in email would take too long to type in and I don't have
that much time. I
suggest you get a copy of the following text for a detailed method to use.
"The Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding", The Lincoln Electric Company, 22801 St.
Cleveland, OH 44117
I have the twelfth edition and chapter 12 is titled "Welding Costs" which should
question. Their many welding texts are reasonably priced and worth the cost.
What kind of welding equipment are you going to use?
Pipeline guys make semi-automated welders that can do this sort of thing to
very high quality in a few minutes. By hand would take a little longer, to
the same quality, but would probably be quicker for a leak-tight weld. Are
we going for full x-ray inspected pressure integrity here, or just enough to
keep the water inside?