Advice needed on tractor modification

I own a Kubota BX23. It is a small rubber tire tractor with a front bucket and a backhoe in the rear. 23HP. I made a removable toothbar for the bucket and am in the process of digging out a basement under my house. Additionally, I would like to do some minor grading on a serpentine hillside roadway on my property. I find it frustrating that I am unable to tilt the bucket as you would tilt the blade on a dozer. I would like to create a horizontal roadbed (or a level basement) and of course the machine will only cut and prolong the same plane on which the tires sit. Just a 1 or 2 inch tilt would make a tremendous difference.

Any ideas on how I could create a tilting bucket (hydraulic controlled, naturally). My main question is about the axis of rotation. I envision that one corner of the bucket support would be replace by a hefty ball joint, and the other corner would have a hydraulic cylinder that would raise that corner up 2 inches, or lower it 2 inches. Has anybody done this? Any ideas how?

I know that this machine is not the ideal tool for dozing, but, my soil is so soft that even after excavating down 7 feet (basement) I can still take an approx. 3" slice of earth and fill the bucket real fast.

All ideas and comments appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary
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"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in news:2X5Qg.7196$wU4.4217@trnddc06:

While not really an answer to your question, the way I always got a level start when doing such things as a professional operator was with the backhoe bucket. Use it to create a level area slightly longer than the tractor wheelbase to get started. Only takes a couple of minutes. I agree it would be handy in some situations, but there is also some danger in allowing a rotation point in the bucket because of the top- heaviness of a backhoe.

Reply to
Anthony

True, the modification needs to be to the operator. Another way is to use the front bucket to pick up dirt and move it to the downhill side, dropping it slowly as you back up. The machine will follow the slope you create, and if it drifts out just scatter another front bucket to get the slope you want. Not as handy as tilting a dozer blade but definitely doable with practice.

Reply to
Nick Hull

Reply to
bbujulu

It will take you less time to simply level it the old fashioned way (stakes, string, a level, rakes [put a reference line on the handle to line up with the strings], shovels) than it will to futz with the bucket mount, which is a non-trivial task at the minimum. You could try just leveling enough to get the bucket started level, but in the end, even with a tilting bucket, you need to get out the rake to get it right (as can be adequately demonstrated by observing the contour of the ground on jobs where (barring cnc laser-referenced earth-movers) the contractor can't be bothered to get off the machine and get his hands dirty.)

For road-grading, a mid-mount grader blade is the better thing to cobble up, and easier to cobble up than a tilting bucket would be.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Learn the art of back-dragging. It will make a tremendous difference.

Reply to
Ron Thompson

I have no experience, but a good old boy from Montana told me that someone there was selling a implement for grading. From his description it was kind of like a long trailer with a blade mounted ahead of the trailer wheels. The blade could be adjusted between smoothing an existing road and doing light grading. The maker would take one to a farm and let the farmer use it for for a week or so before trying to sell it.

If you want, I will see if I can get a sketch for you.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

Thanks, I've been using the 'create a level area' but, having used a dozer before, I thought there might be an easier way.

On this particular model, I remove the backhoe and put a counter weight on the 3-pt hitch.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Very, very interesting (mid-mount grader blade). The tractor already has mounts and power take off for mid-mount mower. I love your idea. An opportunity to do metal fab for a practical use is always welcome.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Ron, I am semi good at back grading but only in a field situation, not in the creation of narrow pathway that is only a few feet wider than my equipment. Please elaborate on technique, other than dumping dirt on the low side in order to level up the machine. Seriously, I could use some instruction.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

That sounds like a fun implement. Unfortunately, with a blade so far to the rear I am afraid that my tractor will already have tipped over on its side before I can take advantage of running it on the 'newly graded' roadway. See, in some instances I am trying to pioneer roadways on an approximately

2:1 (two to one) side slope. Really should be using a dozer along with its low center of gravity.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Does your tractor have a float mode? By activating this mode you can allow the bucket arms to float. On some machines pushing the down lever all the way down will put you in "float". On a Bobcat the down pedal pushed all the way down engages a detent which puts it in float until the pedal is tapped.

Reply to
ATP*

I would use a boxblade. You can vary the height of one end and level your slope by backing into it. Depending on the slope, a rear grader blade that you can angle as well as level would move dirt to the downhill side of the road.

--Andy Asberry recommends NewsGuy--

Reply to
Andy Asberry

Yes, I do have a "float" mode on the tractor and I do use it. Thanks for the reply.

Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Thanks Andy!!! I do have a box scraper, but, due to lack of brains, I never thought of using it in a slightly tilted manner. Getting old. Thanks for idea. I'll get out there as soon as the rain stops.

Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

The term "Gannon" springs to mind, I think they're a manufacturer - box grader that goes on the 3-point of a small tractor, retractable ripper teeth optional. Perfect for small grading and leveling jobs.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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