Aluminum transmission case repair - rebuilding "ears"

I'd like some opinions and reality checks on fixing an aluminum tranny
case (Dodge a604) that has one of the mounting "ears" completely
broken off and one partially. This is toward the back of the tranny
on the far end from the bellhousing. They both have a threaded hole.
Preheating the entire case to ~500F is not a problem and an AC TIG is
available. Sounds like 4047 filler is what most have used in the
past.
I am curious about how these would work out vs "classic" TIG repair:
1. Facing both ears and then brazing on chunks of aluminum and then
drilling/tapping?
2. Would getting a copper/bronze/brass bols of the correct size made
up and then placing it into the partially busted ear and building up
new aluminum be a good labor/time saving idea? Maybe some nickel-based
anti-seize on the bolt first?
3. How about the new hts2000 filler/ repair rods at
aluminumrepair.com. They claim some great stuff and google seems to
have some real and positive actual usage reports. The stuff is kind
of expensive though. ~ $70 for a 1lb starter pack. I'm figuring this
should be more than enough with a bit left over? This sounds
tempting as a "new thing" to try.
What did I leave out?
Classic TIG repair
1. Detergent wash the bejeezuse out of it.
2. Brake clean spray the areas being repaired.
3. Preheat to ~500F - maybe hit again with brake cleaner if stuff
bubbles up (away from open flame and not inhaling fumes)
4. Hit with clean brush and start laying down beads.
5. Slowly cool down, then grind to shape, drill and tap.
6. Maybe let it sit for a couple of weeks to reharden/temper.
Thanks!
Jay
Reply to
jj
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I am very interesting how this project turns out. Is there some way you can take photos along the way. That would be great. Sorry, I cannot help you regarding your questions.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus7434
Can you spell junk yard????
Reply to
Clif Holland
it is cast aluminum. clean it. grind the hell out of it all around to get surface aluminum where tranny fluid has soaked in. bevel the heck out of the pieces.
tig weld it back together. can't help with filler materials.
let it cool.
rebuild tranny which takes a day or 2.
Reply to
Doug
well there is a less expensive and easier to do than tig welding have you ever tried alumiweld I was designed just for this sort of thing and it is stronger than the original aluminum ,a buddy had got some to try it and he told me it was fantastic he took an old tranny casting that the mounting tab was broken off (the tranny was a junker ) and then he tried to take a hammer to make it come off ,he said he broke the old case and knocked the alumiweld but it took a nice chunk of the original material with it ,so now he uses it to fix all the little aluminum repairs around his place and on his vehicles he says it's easier and cheaper to fix an engine bracket then to hunt one down at a junk yard , I researched it a lil bit here the military had used something very similar to it years ago for they needed something to do field repairs to fix minor failures like brackets and certain components getting cracked ,or broken off and they didn't like the idea of having a vehicle being pulled back to replace a minor part or to have a welding crew to get at it ,so they looked for something they can use quickly and easily and that anybody can do and this is what they got and they need a propane torch and a stainless steel wire brush to use it if you want the addy I believe it is alumiweld.com but if thats not it you should be able to find it in a search good luck
Reply to
badaztek
I don't like the classic "miracle rod" like alumiweld et al. The HTS2000 stuff looks interesting, testimonials are impressive. Note that these alloys tend to be somewhat brittle. It might be OK for some joint designs, but I'd expect joining a thick ear to a casting might not work well. It won't "wick" into the joint like brazing alloys do; you need full access to all surfaces so you can "scrub" the rod on the workpiece to break up oxides. This necessarily leaves a thick region of alloy because you'd have to V out the joint.
The site claims joints stronger than "heliarc" welds. I'd take that with a large grain of salt. There may be special cases where that is true, but I strongly doubt that it's true in general, or particularly in the case of joining an ear to a casting.
I'd TIG it with 4043 filler. See
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an example of a somewhat similar repair. This repair has held up well in service, with a fair amount of stress on the pin.
4047 might be better, don't know. 4043 worked well for me. 4047 is a bit higher in silicon, has a slightly lower operating temperature. I might try that next time.
Reply to
Don Foreman

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