Any plastic for a soldering jig?

Dec 07, 2006 22 Replies

I use PCB for everything . You can solder the copper side . You can solder it to other pieces of PCB to make structures , boxes , I-beams , cases . And you get electrical isolation on the other side , which is handy , no sparks , nor short circuits ....

I made a case for my Freq counter . I started with to and bottom then figured the sides could be made from may pieces , so i could screw them in separately , assemble it a piece at a time . This allows me to get at the insides like for example a trim pot or whatever ... The BNC is held by one of these "sides" , but it soldered it solid , and it gives strength to the whole thing , right where you need it . The front panel switches can make use of the copper clad on the front ....a place to solder return springs , etc ..

PCB boxes are very strong and allow new designs .

BTW I will build a ultra precision balance beam wt scale and i want to start of with some low precision std's . If i mike a grade 25 steel ball about 1/8" size , i should be able to use 2779 of them to equal a kilo ( +/- .000000000000074 % ) . Later i'll buy a better set of std's ... It should be possible to build a balance that is accurate parts per billion , with a very low budget .. If you understand friction and hot to reduce it .. Instead of hinge , use spring steel or shim stock .

Im having fun with the HF $15 ? 1/2 kilo digi-scale .. It says Canada put more than 1Troy oz in my maples ! Bakers dozen ?!! Maple leafs weigh 1.04 Troy ozs according to the Cineese .

Why cobble up an inferior copy of a proven product? Mettler has been building them for decades with quartz fiber torsion elements. I wonder what they know that you don't?

LLoyd

I can't think of any plastic hard enough, that can stand that much heat. I 'clamp' that kind of work in place using cheap ($2 for 100), spring loaded wooden clothes pegs, & whittle/slot the jaws to the appropriate shapes, & (if neccessary) tie them or the workpieces together with whatever bare wire (copper/brass/florists) I have handy. If you need something for production quanties or greater precision, stainless or carbon steel is good because the 60/40 (electronics) solder used for brass won't wet it.

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