Anyone here rebuild a F163 engine

My SA200 is leaking oil from front and rear seals. Will probably put an additive in there, but am not expecting a lot. Has anyone rebuilt one of
these four bangers? Doesn't look like anything complicated. I've rebuilt about half a dozen V-8's in my life, the old 283/327 Chevies. Parts seem to be available, probably even from NAPA.
Ideas appreciated. I know it will cost a bit, but compared to a new one, it will be less, and I like this old gal. If the back half checks out, I may spring for it. I'm guessing $500. Anyone know the real price?
Steve
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You might as well start out with standard practices..
#1 - a compression check. Most everyone thinks they know how, but look it up so you don't do it wrong.. which can be very misleading.
Seals can be replaced without an overhaul. Trouble is, ya might find scored journals and bearings. But if the journals and bearings are in good condition, keep everything very clean during reassembly, and all should be fine (assuming the compression check was good.
Plasti-gage optional, and a good idea.
If journals are scored (no plasti-gage required to determine that they need replaced), the crank should be ground undersize to spec for undersize bearings.
Then buy the correct bearings and proceed by keeping everything very clean during the reassembly. Plasti-gage is a good method of double-checking accuracy before closing up the crankcase and running the engine only to find out it cranks too slowly, or there are knocking noises.
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Gunner Asch wrote:

I think he meant a total rebuild - rings , rods & mains , seals , maybe an overbore and pistons depending on taper and OOR . That's a flathead isn't it ? Might need valves/guides and a set of hard seats too . Not sure if flatties even have valve guide seals ...
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wrote:

Gasket set, new mains, seals, rod bearings. Might as well go through it while it's apart.
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

http://www.motorpower.net/pricing/f163.html
$415.00
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wrote:

Actually, the front and rear main seals can usually be replaced without tearing the engine apart. See if you can get aservice manual on the vehicle and look at the procedure. Generally speaking the front seal is pulled out and the replacement is driven in with a driver or appropriately sized socket. The rear main is pretty much the same.
Jim
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wrote:

Hmm.. Interesting. Is that with the engine in place? I haven't looked at it. Can you drop the pan without having to jack up the engine and take the motor mounts off, or separate from the generator? I know the old Chebbies had a rope seal that you could pull through with a piece of aircraft cable that came with the kit. Doing those two without doing everything else would be a nice alternative.
Steve
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wrote:

Thx. My $500 SWAG was close. By the time I replace everything I want to do, I'll probably be in it $750.
Steve
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On 11/23/2010 9:28 AM, Steve B wrote:

IIRC those had a water jacket manifold that would deteriorate over time.
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replying to Steve B, DON SCHMIDT SCHMIDTY F163 wrote: I HAVE REBUILT ABOUT 500 F163'S WHEN I WORKED AT VALLEY ENGINE IN CINCINNATI OHIO FROM 1966 TO 1992 I WAS THE SUPERVISOR FOR THE CONTINENTAL ENGINE REBUILDING DIVISON
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replying to Steve B, DON SCHMIDT SCHMIDTY F163 wrote: I HAVE REBUILT ABOUT 500 F163'S WHEN I WORKED AT VALLEY ENGINE IN CINCINNATI OHIO FROM 1966 TO 1992 I WAS THE SUPERVISOR FOR THE CONTINENTAL ENGINE REBUILDING DIVISON
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