bandsaw 304 stainless

I've been cutting some 0.110" thick 304 on my roll-in bandsaw. I started with my slowest speed and finest tooth blade, 12 TPI. The blade would catch, stall and break a tooth out. Blade was shot after maybe ten feet of cutting.

So I put in a new blade and bumped up to speed two (sorry, don't know fpm). I seen a few sparks and blade is shot after ten inches of cutting.

OK, back to low gear when I get another blade ordered. What blade will be best for this s%^&t? Any other suggestions? Especially how to battle catching and breaking out a tooth? I'm guessing I should try cutting a stack of 1/8 cold rolled and my SS to increase part thickness - then just toss the cold rolled.

Reply to
Karl Townsend
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"Karl Townsend" wrote in message news:zINQh.18187$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...

Rule of thumb is, "At least two teeth on the work". At 0.110", you usually have only one tooth in the kerf at 12tpi.

How about flopping the work onto a wider cross-section, and cutting like that? Or is it 0.110 rod?

Done work-hardened yer piece, dincha? If the teeth skate, even for a second, 304 will bite you bad like that. Going into the work too slowly will have a similar effect. Every tooth, every time, MUST take a cut. Skid, and you're dead.

Cut across a wider cross-section, or cut several pieces at once.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Hi Karl,

Try calling DoAll in your area - their Penetrator M-42 Cobalt blades do well with SS

Also try engaging the part slower and use a good cutting fluid.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message news:zINQh.18187$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...

Reply to
Epictitus

Cutting stuff that thin is gonna be a problem. You may want to try a 18 tooth. Remember.. at least 3 teeth in the cut. And use coolant on 304.

You showed the problem in your post.."teeth would catch"

Backing it up with sacrificial material may or may not work. Remember the hardest material wins.

Flood coolant really really helps with problem metals.

Gunner

Fred Thompson and Condi Rice in '08!!!

Reply to
Gunner
0.11 is just way to thin for a saw with no feed control. You'll strip teath every time. Stack your pieces or stand up the head and feed manual.
Reply to
starbolins

Yea, guess I had to have that lesson taught to me again.

My big Doall saw has flood. Kinda hard to do sheet metal on it. It would be a stone bitch to add flood to my roll-in. The fluid would run accross the metal and then all over the floor.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

If you have a vertical saw that goes over 1500 FPM you can friction saw the pieces. 5000+ FPM is better, but I can cut 1/8" SS on my saw at 1500 FPM. Most any dull blade will work. Keep an eye on the sparks if the saw's been used on flammable materials.

I received a cryptic reply a couple days to an email I sent you a year ago about Microbore parts. Was that for real?

Ned Simmons

Reply to
Ned Simmons

I'll try the friction thing. I got two freshly dulled blades, nothing to lose.

I got an email from you a couple days ago about Microbore cartridges. Didn't mean to be criptic. IIRC, you asked if I'm still interested. I am in some sizes, but I've bought up quite a bunch on eBay.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

You need to have at least three teeth in the cut or it will do what is had been doing. I would recommend getting the best blade you can Matrix 42 or similiar, one for cutting alloy and stainless steel. Lenox is a good brand. Coolant will also help for blade life. Cut stainless at the slowest speed.

John

Reply to
John

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