bearing woes

It has a removable bearing insert with a spherical OD, if that's what you mean by "tilt out." The question is whether it matches yours. The overall dimensions will vary depending on the bearing's load capacity. If you pull the insert you can compare the dimensions to McM's downloadable models. If the 2D drawings are not clear, and you can't view the 3D models, let me know and I'll get the dims for you.

I just got it apart. Worked till 8:30 LOTS of heat, 3/4 impact, puller, and sledge hammer. I hit the end of the puller with the sledge so hard it bent the push bolt in it.

Insert bearing is the right term. Looks like Mcmaster doesn't carry them. Also looks like I got a non standard bearing anyway. 1 7/16 shaft, OD of the bearing is 3.14. All insert bearings at one online store show 2.83 on all 1 7/16 bearings. I noted all 1 1/2 inch bearing have the 3.14 O.D.

At least now I have it apart and the right terminology. I can use the phone to find it. And then send milady on a road trip.

The insert in the McMaster pillow block is also 2.83 OD.

Fafnir GN 107 KRRB and SKF YAR 207-107 both have a 3.14 OD, but different shaft locking arrangements, and perhaps different seals.

Some mfrs call them adapter bearings or wide inner ring bearings.

...

Are these two bearings for 1 7/16 shaft? By chance do you have an online link to a drawing of them?

Yes, both are 1-7/16 shaft. I looked them up the old fashioned way, but I'm sure pdfs of the catalogs are online.

The b-in-l has a similar stalk chopper he uses once in awhile, leaves it out in the weather so bearings are a continual problem. Last batch he got, he ordered from an outfit in Chicago, were Fafnir and inch. Usually he buggers up the mounts getting them off, so he's been ordering the works, not just the spherical bearing. He WAS ordering them out of South Bend, but that outfit jacked up the price to nearly $100@. The Chicago outfit was a lot cheaper. even with shipping. I found the outfit for him with google and the part number.

Stan

I got clipped for $90 this morning. Plus the cost of driving 120 miles. I had never seen this before, there's a little pin that goes down the grease zirk hole to keep the bearing from turning. So, I had to fabricate this.

Main job was filing and filing to get the bearing and pulley to slide back on easily. I had got the shaft so hot that it deformed and parts of it hardened so the file skated on the shaft. Took careful work with the side grinder here.

Plus, I finished breaking my gear puller. I hit it as hard as I could with a 12 lb. hammer while the assembly was red hot. That with the puller as tight as it would go on my 3/4 impact.

I need a heavier duty puller. Is there such a thing as a puller that would hook up to my porta power hydraulic pump?

Karl

Yep, but I bet their not cheap.. I saw some on grainger for over 2 grand..

If you hardened it so that the file is skating, this may be where it breaks one of these days. Better make sure you have stock on hand to fab a new shaft.

Wes

Na, its just a surface phenomena. The torch is set slightly carbonizing when using a rose bud so the flame don't pop out. When you get something red hot, you get a bit of carbon in the top couple thou. Just a light shot with a grinder takes it off. I've done this many times.

Karl

So it was low carbon steel. Glad you have it under control.

Wes

Next time, try using an air chisel with a hammer head in it or using an air impact gun to screw the push bolt in. Either of them set up vibrations in the puller and shaft which help the removal.

Be sure to lube the puller bolt with extreme duty grease before using it, too. The difference will amaze you.

-- Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai

Ouch! That's

I had never seen this before, there's a little pin that goes

Did you use a rosebud or a small/medium OA tip? I like to use the smallest tip I can, then heat only a tiny strip of the bearing race to get it to loosen up. It's often much quicker and easier if you take a

it, either to partially disassemble it so you can get the puller on the inner race or to slit the inner race and tap it off with a slide hammer puller. (WHEN you can get to it.)

OK, you had an impact. Good man.

Yabbut, you're not going to like the price. It's easier to fab one yourself, specific to the couple of specific tasks you have for it. You already have the ram, so fab some drifts and a cage which will bolt around the pulley. It'll be heavy, but it'll be heavy duty, too.

-- Win first, Fight later.

--martial principle of the Samurai