better wire stripper and crimp pins

My horrible fright quality wire stripper has worn out... Its a pliers action that clamps then brings two blades on the wire before pulling. For stripping #22 to #28 wire, what's a good unit?

I'm in love with the D-sub crimper DoN put me on to. I used to tin the ends of very small wire before putting in a terminal strip. Today, I just crimped D-sub pins on. Quicker and better than tinning. But, made me wonder, is there a crimp product made just for terminal strip insertion?

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend
Loading thread data ...

Will these work well on extremely small stranded wire, like #28. I thought the bigger units would cut off a few of these very fine wires when stripping.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

formatting link
>

If you have the right blades in the stripper it will do the smaller wires but most of them have the blades for the larger wire sizes. #28 wire is kinda small to use on a machine because it is so easy to break or cut when crimping to a terminal if your crimping device is not set properly. Do enough of them though and you will get the hang of it. The average install I did ran about 5 miles of # 24 mil spec M22759 as well as a bunch of heavier wire all hot stamped end to end and soldered into a PTO-6E/PTO-2E series plug. To strip that small wire you should have a thermal wire stripper so you don't cut the fine strands in your #28 wire. I would recommend that you use a heavier wire than #28.

This looks like it might work ok, cheap too.

formatting link
John

Reply to
john

Paladin makes a pliers-type gizmo that works well; pricey, though.

I usually use the pliers-type with ground notches and spring opening (Diamond WS7E is the make and model I like best), but you have to protect the edges (it has to go in a holster so the sharp bits don't get dinged in the tool pile).

Reply to
whit3rd

formatting link
jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

I have stripped about a zillion wire ends in the past half century. I have used the pliers type and the circle type and any other type that fell across the bench. I now use a thermal stripper or plain old scissor type strippers. If you need a crutch when stripping insulation try no-niks:

formatting link

It is not considered good practice to tin stranded wire for insertion into a terminal block. The solder cold flows and the connection loosens, and the solder/wire intersection forms a brittle stress point.

Kevin Gallimore

Reply to
axolotl

I used to strip 30ga wires for wire wrapping and found that Clauss No-Nik wire strippers were the best thing going and the only stripper that would do teflon insulation other than a thermal stripper.

formatting link
always worked and never nicked a wire. Highly recommended. Art

Reply to
Artemus

tp://

formatting link

Second that. Their only minor problem is in stripping to exact length.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Bootlace ferrules make for a neat job.

formatting link

Reply to
Dennis

I thought that you would be, once you used it. :-)

Which kind of terminal strip? Forked terminals are good for strips like the Jones Barrier strips. The best are the kind (AMP makes them, of course) which have little bulges on the tips so you can snap them over the loosened screw shank, and wait until you have one or two more snapped in place before tightening.

Now -- I've seen crimp on terminals for the kind of strip which normally accepts bare wire -- but I don't know where to get them. They were of the Type-F (flag) crimp -- similar to but not identical to the D-sub terminals. Probably AMP/Tyco makes them, but you would need an industrial catalog to find them -- and then the trick is to find the right crimper at eBay prices. :-)

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

[ ... ]

[ ... ]

The nicest one for the smaller sizes is one which looks similar, but the brand is "Nickless" and it has two blue plastic insert blades from a turret dispenser. (I hope that they are still made -- I may need more blades soon. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

...

BINGO!

I didn't know what to call them, Digikey stocks all sorts.

formatting link
I need another crimper. Would you bring up the data sheet on the above item and tell me which crimper to go for?

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

Don'll know the ones!

My personsal preference is to use a crimper that folds the lug in on itself length-ways rather than the ones that do square corrugated crimp (horribly vague description!)like this:

formatting link
Sorry I couldn't find a picture of the crimp style that I prefer. The jaws that do it may be a bit like this:

formatting link
Make sure to fit the smallest ferrule that will just slide over the wire. If they are a little loose sometimes twisting the wires with your fingers will increase the diameter just enough for a snug fit.

Reply to
Dennis

Stranded wire crimp terminals are available in pin-style tips with insulated collars, which are the same crimp sizes as the more common red/blue/yellow crimp terminals.

formatting link
These pin terminals can be used in DIN rail strips or most connections that accept bare stranded or solid wire ends. Some connecting blocks won't accept multiple pin-style wire terminals, and if several side-by-side or random block positions are allocated for the same electrical connection (several for ground, for example), the installer can daisychain several connector block positions on the system side of the connector block/DIN rail.

Standard quality crimping tools are generally acceptable for the pin-style terminals.

Many/most electrical supplies distributors will stock the pin-style crimp terminals, as thay're a common termination product in industrial systems.

Reply to
Wild_Bill

I bought a couple of these at work back when I was doing a lot of enclosures.

formatting link
Plus a couple of these. Worked great, push to start, stopped automatically at preset torque. It was on the company dime, though. This url may wrap in some newsreaders.

formatting link
?groupId=%28%22group72848452865362%22%29&page=Group The instrument techs loved 'em. I managed to hang on to them until I changed assignments.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Pete Keillor

The absolutely best way to do this is to ask the terminal manufacturer which crimpers they approve. There are many that will get you close, some even close enough, but if you want your crimps to be truly up to spec, you need to use the crimper that is specd by the terminal manufacturer.

On top of that, many crimpers have adjustments, and some of the adjustment procedures are more complicated than you might think. We used to have a factory guy from AMP come out periodically and adjust our hand crimpers and the die sets on the automatic machines.

Reply to
rangerssuck

Automation Direct has the best prices on ferrules I've found, by far

-- 500 for $6 in the small sizes.

formatting link
I use a ferrule crimper made by Wago. I haven't tried Automation Direct's crimper.
formatting link

Reply to
Ned Simmons

They look like they're the "real thing". But, each stripper is good for one size only (and stranded is a different size from solid) and they are $40 each. A set could cost you $400 and MIGHT be justified in a professional context.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt
[ ... ]

Done in private e-mail.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.