I am gluing some copper to wood with CA. Anyone knows how to get rid of the white/blue/green discoloration that develops with an accelerator? It disappears when washed with 99% isopropanol or acetone but reappears after drying.
I understand that there may be a way to avoid getting the white stuff by not using so much of the accelerator but is there any way to get rid of it *after* the fact?
Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC
Metal polish? Polishing compound?
Salt + lemon juice cleans it, but MAAS metal polish cleans and protects from oxidizing again. Try that. About $5 for a tube not much larger than your thumb, but it goes a long way. Works on most metals. I've had luck with copper, brass, silver plate, aluminum (I think), and stainless steel.
Yeah, don't use the accelerator.
What he said. Accelerator active ingredient is N,N-dimethyl p-toluidene, a tertiary amine. Amines react with copper to form quaternary amine complexes. In other words, they eat copper.
Pete Keillor
Or at least go at it knowing that you're going to need to use a polishing compound that's going to actually remove the material.
I wouldn't expect a CA to wood bond to be secure in the long run. If you need strength, I think epoxy would be better, or maybe contact cement.
ttdesign.com- Hide quoted text -
I'd use a silicone adhesive(or screws). Wood moves, copper doesn't, a rigid bond is going to shear. Copper isn't going to stay shiny unless you coat it with lacquer or wax.
Stan
Software
Which is why I keep recommending any of the many flavors of Goop. Good strong flexible bond, cheap, easy cleanup.
For a job like this, Plumbers Goop - very low viscosity will make for a smooth thin film.
Excellent bond.
It would have been my first choice but not feasible in this application. The same reason why accelerator was desirable.
I changed the way I apply the accelerator and I no longer see the discoloration and get a secure bond quickly. Problem solved.
Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC
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