Cheap Chinese Mill-drill

Well, the boss finally broke down and bought a mill -- sorta.

It's from Cummins Tools, those guys who periodically descend on some unsuspecting town and hold a "Truckload Tool Sale."

It's a red-painted beast with the head on ways rather than on a round post. (Which I like) It's about 18 inches tall with decent X and Y table motions, (8 inches on the Y axis and 4+ on the X) there's not a lot of backlash and for what little slot-cutting, etc. we do, it'll probably be adequate.

Now comes The Problem. Since it was the last one they had for this trip and was a little shopworn, boss got it for $250; as is, where is. It came with no collets only an attachment with a 1/2-inch chuck on it. The chuck will hold an end mill well enough for cutting slots, but the damn chuck won't stay on the drawbar. I've tried cleaning the drawbar taper up, marking it with magic marker each trial. The mating surfaces now appear to be touching each other correctly, but the damn chuck still won't stay on anyway.

Since I'm by no means a skilled or knowledgeable machinist, (or even _a_ machinist) I'm asking for some ideas how to correct this problem.

I'm tempted to just chuck the attachment bar in a lathe, turn down the chuck taper until I can get the chuck against the shoulder of the attachment and just weld the thing together. We'll never need to cut more than 3/8 slots, but I just think that's a poor way to solve the problem, just a desperation move.

Does anybody know what collets the thing _should_ use and if they are available? Would the welding plan work at all, disregarding the hack-and-slash methodology?

I'm trying to get this thing operating well enough for occasional use on very small tasks generally. So far, it worked fine, though incorrectly, for a simple slot lengthening job, but I'd really like to get it going right. It's not a Bridgeport, but I'd like to make it work well enough for our small shop.

Advance thanks: I know somebody on this group will have a answer besides "throw the POS out!" :)

Reply to
John Husvar
Loading thread data ...

A drill chuck won't live long if you use it to hold endmills.

Reply to
Dave Lyon

Taper mounted chucks are *not* to be used in side loaded applications like milling. Order a proper collet for $10 or end mill holder for $20 from Enco.

Pete C.

Reply to
Pete C.

Reply to
Steve Hopper

That's pretty much what I figured: It doesn't work and now I know it can't. Thanks! I'll start checking out Enco. Do you have a URL for them, perhaps?

Reply to
John Husvar

Thank you. I kind of figured as much. Now I know.

See my reply to Pete C.

My experience with milling has been limited to using a clamp-on keyway cutter on shafting except for a very little time using a Bridgeport, which a _real_ machinist set up. :)

Reply to
John Husvar

Which proves again that you should never, ever try to use a drill chuck to hold an end mill for anything but plunge work.

Collets and/or end-mill holders are cheap enough and easy to find. Spend a few bucks and do it right before some one gets hurt. Think of the chuck coming lose at high speed with an end-mill or cutter and going across the shop.

Unless the shop is next to broke I suggest an ER collet holder adapter. Very tight grip on the tooling shanks, wide clamp range, and easy to change the tooling.

Email me if you need some suggested sources.

Uncle George

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

formatting link

formatting link

formatting link

...And the other two major players (as far as I know, I'm sure there are others, these one have decent web ordering/presence)

Reply to
Ecnerwal

That's the one! Wonder why I didn't find it. I missed it somehow. Poor choice of search terms maybe.

Thanks.

Reply to
John Husvar

That's turned out to be a little bit of an understatement!

I see your point. I have a heckuva lot to learn. (obviously) Thanks to rcm, it might be a less painful process.

I'll start looking for sure.

Thank you. John

Reply to
John Husvar

Should use R8 collects.

formatting link
You can get a cheap set of 13 collets (1/8" to 7/8" by 16ths) for $45 part number 505-5022 Or just buy the few sizes you need for $7 each. These are definately NOT top of the line but should be just fine for your machine.

You might want to get the full set of el-cheapo end mills to match: 4 flute 3/16" to 3/4" by 1/16th for $35 P/N 320-9005

Cheers.

John Husvar wrote:

Reply to
RoyJ

Dude, check out:

formatting link
Lots of info there. That's the Sieg Mini-mill, same one as available from Harbor Freight, Grizzly, etc. I have one. Not a bad piece of gear, especially for the money.

I got collets in all sizes from:

formatting link
I haven't tried them yet, but I can only assume they work fine. You'll note there are a lot of cool "upgrades" and options for those mills available there, too. They even have a "spare parts" kit of the cheap and commonly broken parts that you might encounter. You probably want:

formatting link
Note they even show the Cummins 7877 as compatible. Very nice site. Probably not the cheapest place around, but they seem to have stock when they say they do, they ship fast, and they ship right (in my limited experience with them).

--Donnie

Reply to
Donnie Barnes

In addition to msc/enco [actually different sided of the same company see:

formatting link
?pr=END_MILL_HOLDER_W_R-8_SHANK&id=29[fwit -- I find the holders are better than the collets but cut-down on the headroom.

formatting link
collet c.6$US
formatting link
of 6 c. 24$US]

formatting link
collet to R8 adapter -- good if you change tools frequently]

formatting link
3/8 shank endmills and a 3/8 R8 holder 30$US
formatting link
set of holders

One trick is to get a 1 inch R8 holder and make up adapters for your smaller tooling from 1 inch drill rod. Quick change tooling cheap.

Uncle George

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

John That's the same mill I have, but mine came from Homier. Your boss got a bargain at $250. I would have bought it for that, even though I have one already.

Save the drill chuck for drilling when you need a very accurately placed hole. Get at least a 3/8" R8 collet for that endmill. As someone else said, just get a cheap set from any of a number of places. About $5 each , less in sets. You will need a rack. I made one from 1x4 pine, but you can buy one for

Reply to
Rex B

--Do yourself a favor and fire your boss.. ;-)

Reply to
steamer

For a good introductory text see

formatting link
This may be available for less $ through amazon, etc.

Uncle George

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

Tempting sometimes! :)

Seriously, we could afford a bigger, better mill, but it'd be such overkill for what we do that it wouldn't make sense. About the most we'll ever do with this thing is make or lengthen slots in wheelchair adaptive equipment. Rarely, we might mill a piece to fit it into a tight spot.

I'll probably work it harder making some tee-nuts and clamping pieces than I ever will actually making or modifying parts. Heck, A drill press vise is most likely the biggest thing we'll ever need for it. That or a small proper milling vise will hold anything we're likely to put on it.

I managed to get a little job done yesterday doing everything wrong and holding the workpieces in our drill press vise, which I clamped to the mill's table with 3/8 hex head bolts and washers. Nothing got away (except the chuck itself because I was too dumb to remember you can't hold endmills in drill chucks) and the cuts did get made.

One of these days I might even get to having some vague idea what I'm doing.

One thing for sure, I'll add one more skill to my repertoire soon as I do get that vague idea. And I like that. :)

Reply to
John Husvar

Save yourself a lot of time and use carriage bolts. You will need to grind a little of the top of the head and the sides to fit your table slots. Belt sander works fine for this. Carriage bolts are not [generally] grade 8 but on a low power machine they will be fine. Make up a bunch in different lengths.

Uncle George

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

R8 is common as dirt.

Dont use the chuck.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Kinda got that message -- as well as discovering to my dismay that it just doesn't work. :)

This has gotta be the most helpful newsgroup on Usenet, maybe in a dead heat with sci.engr.joining.welding

Just downright awesome, the amount of expertise in those two groups!

Reply to
John Husvar

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.