I use all sizes, from 3/16 to 5/8, mostly dictated by what I pick up at garage sales, auctions, etc. Nothing beats getting brand-new carbide's, say, for about $1 per hundred. If I had to pay retail, I'd probably be using 1/16th bits. However, as a general rule I always use the heaviest tool bits I can fit in my holders. The smaller ones (e.g., 1/4") I use mostly for boring bars and small fly cutters.
Boris
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...2.9. Why won?t this chuck hold parts exactly on center?2.9..No chuck or...
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Boris Beizer
That too. And the larger holders are more available and cheaper than the smaller holders at the used tool places.
Boris
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Boris Beizer
I don't understand at all. The problem with my lathe is that to get a
5/8" bit on center, I have to bottom the holder so that it rests on the compound. The problem is that the bits come out above center, not below. How does putting in a spacer help you lower the bit when the holder is already at bottom and the bit is still above center?
Boris
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Boris Beizer
Mine is a very old (1945 or so) Series 110 Clausing (12.75 x 48). The compound is rather thick. From what I've seen of the newer Clausings (e.g.,
5,000 series) the top surface of the
I landed a Dorian D25AXA-16C, an Aloris AXA 8 (Threading tool) and monster Aloris BX4 boring bar holder all for $7.50 at a flea market... gloat, gloat, gloat. So I'm hanging on to both tool posts.
Boris
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Boris Beizer
Don't you know? What do you think happens to old garment hangers from the dry-cleaning store? Just thread them and use them as set screws.
I never had that problem with Phase II stuff, although I did find that a problem with stuff made in India. I bought a jeweler's rolling mill a couple of months ago and shortly after assembling and trying it out, I removed all the screws and bolts and retapped the holes as required, replacing them with high-grade US stuff. Problem with India is that they invented steel over two thousand years ago and haven't seen fit to change the formula since.
The backplate was really thick 1-1/4" so the spindle nose was safely out of the way,
Thank you. Obviously I didn't know what you meant by "register diameter." Okay. Now I understand the issue. You are referring to the **inside** diameter of the hole in the plate, which is to mate with the unthreaded part of the spindle. There was no option on that with this backplate. It came finished, with no option to machine, except to make it larger. So this adapter is depending on the flat surface mating. Oh well! I didn't plan to use the four jaw scroll chuck for precise work. My smaller three-jaw is an adjust-through and for precise 4-jaw work I would use the regular four-jaw chuck and indicate in as needed.
Boris
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Bob AZ
Boria
Most of my bits are below center. May be the way they were ground and also they have been around for a while. So when I bought my lathe, Brimingham 13" X 40", the provided tool holder will accomodate bits up to 1". Thus the spacers. The spacers are actually the pieces that have to be removed to accomodate the circuit breakers in a power panel face.
When I get my BXA post ready to go, need to mill the base, I will not need the spacers.
Bob AZ
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Boris Beizer
Okay. Now it makes sense. I thought that you were using spacers with a BXA toolpost ..which didn't make any sense at all, since there's at least 1" of adjustment in the holder screw.
Boris.
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DoN. Nichols
According to Boris Beizer :
I think that the quality of the screws from Phase II has improved, and it was probably not as bad as the stuff from India, even with the screws which came with mine. But one screw *did* start to split, so I replaced them all. And while I was at it, I replaced them with 5/16" screws, and re-tapped the holes in the blocks, so the single T-handled Allen wrench is a proper fit on those and the ones which come in the genuine Aloris toolholders. (The fit may have been what caused the split in the first place.) At least, the split was not bad enough to lead to my having to drill out the screw. :-)
:-)
[ ... ]
Correct. I thought, from what you posted, that that was the problem.
Well ... you *can* bore it out, press in a collar, and then bore that to precise size, if necessary. :-)
I normally don't have to deal with that these days, because I swapped my lathe's 2-1/4x8 spindle for an L-00 spindle, so I can turn in reverse without risking the chuck unscrewing.
O.K. The four-jaw universal chuck is nice for dealing with square stock -- as long as it is *truly* square. I've got a nice one for my Compact-5/CNC, but not one for the Clausing -- yet.
Enjoy, DoN.
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