Cicular blade for aluminum

I'm seeing some conflicting information on the right blade to use for cutting aluminum.....mayvbe you can help.

I know carbide would be best but this is a small quantity of .050 (5052) aluminum that I need to cut on my table saw with a 10" blade, so I'd prefer just getting a steel blade for one time? use.

However, I'm seeing conflicting info like.....

**72 tooth with a wax stick is best.

**Never use a wax stick because clogging is the last thing you want.......use WD40 instead.

**I've seen "aluminum" cutting blades with as few as 72 teeth and as many as 150 teeth. (For example, Mcmaster carr's blade is 150 tooth).

Anyone actually done this on a table saw and can reccomend EXACTLY what I need?

THANKS.

If I have to get carbide, I will (I like systimatic blades).

Reply to
EBG
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I'm not sure I can tell you exactly what you need, but I've cut lots of plate, up to 1", on a 3HP Unisaw. Also plenty of 80-20 and Item framing on a chop saw. I use a Freud non- ferrous blade. This is the one, I think...

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For thin material a blade with more teeth would likely be better. There are more choices here...

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I've always used stick wax with excellent results and no problems with clogging. The page above warns against wax, but that's the first time I've seen that. It may be the safety weenies worrying about applying wax to a spinning blade. You might want to try both wax and liquid.

The ATB blades seem to push the work around more than a typical woodworking combo blade, so I clamp the stock to a sliding board in the table saw. It's much safer and the cuts are more acccurate with a better finish.

Ned Simmons

Reply to
Ned Simmons

Reply to
habbi

So if I try to cut some 2" square tubing with 0.190 wall thickness, I might expect my chop saw blade to throw some teeth my way after a cut or two?

Reply to
Hitch

Reply to
James Crombie

The high count tooth blades for metal are the way to go. The higher the count, the smoother the work and the thinner the material that can be cut, just like with a hacksaw or other such blades. Wax vs. oil vs. WD40 is more personal preference as each of them works as does dry on certain types of aluminum. Kind of like what gas you put into your car. Some people put only premium Sinclair into their car and would consider anything else to be trash while others use regular gas from the cheapest pumps and wouldn't consider using the expensive Sinclair stuff as it is just a waste of money. Thus, the lubricant that you find working well on cutting aluminum by any other method. I'll also note that different aluminum alloys want different lubricants when machining so be aware.

-- Bob May Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less. Works every time it is tried!

Reply to
Bob May

No one has mentioned the idea that you _should_ use a non-ferrous blade. These blades have negative rake which helps to prevent the blade from picking up your piece of material and tossing it across the shop.

I sell lots of these blades at work. I would never, ever, recommend using anything other than a negative rake blade. I've also cut some 1/2" aluminium plate on a cabinet saw. You'll find out pretty quick that a) this is pretty much the scariest operation that can be performed on a table saw and b) you want the right tool for the job.

It will be loud and it will fling chips everywhere (they're HOT - wear protection).

Our 10" N/F blades (by Dimar) have 96 teeth. They're worth a little bit more than $100 Canadian, although they are of very high quality. I would personally recommend using wax, but as others have said, WD-40 works well also.

HTH.

Regards,

Robin

Reply to
Robin S.

.050 what? Flat, round tubing? I have cut a fair amount of aluminum on my tablesaw and power miter box. I used what ever fine tooth wood cutting blade was in it at the time. I have cut thin extrusions, 1/4" 6061 plate. I would use what ever carbide blade you have. Greg

Reply to
Greg O

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