compressor tank repair

For slightly tighter fit, tap with a 1/8" NPT tap and use a pipe-taper steel plug, Might not need to braze.

Phil Kangas wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500:

It was welded at the factory, and not heat treated - so welding is the correct repair. Have an experienced welder do the job - and it needs to be CLEAN first.

Try welding the chain on a manure spreader!!!

If it looks brand new I would contact whoever made the tank and complain. They have to meet safety standards and a tank with hole doesn't.

You'll likely have a difficult time trying to remove the big hex bushings from factory-assembled air compressor tanks. If you see orange sealer used on the threads, that stuff won't just release with the limited amount of torque that you can apply.

When I couldn't get one of the large hex bushings to break free with a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket, with a cheater pipe and a helper, I decided to cut the bushing out. BTW, this was after the bushing had been heated, soaked with ATF/lacquer thinner, naptha, brake fluid and maybe a couple of other solvents.

I used a saber saw with a coarse blade to cut parallel, not radial slits from the center hole (tank drain valve) outward, while being careful not to nick the threads of the tank adapter flange.

After four cuts, two parallel-opposed sections could be pried out of the hole, allowing the semi-circles to be tapped loose with a chisel.

You would be further ahead to have the leak brazed, IMO, which should last more than one lifetime, if the tank doesn't rust out elsewhere first.

Drilling and jamming something into the hole might risk causing the adapter flange to break.

Miracle cures in a tube etc, are far less likely to make a permanent repair.

Self fluxing? ;-)

Take it to a professional welder , one that is certified to weld pressure vessels . He will grind out the offending weld and re-weld it to the correct standard. Tooling around with pressure vessels is not for the non professional. They can be very dangerous when they rupture.

I've considered that. I may yet.

Well that is interesting. I had no idea it would be good with pressure. I went with JB Weld. It was the only good no-heat choice. If it doesn't work, I haven't made it any worse. Hit it with a grinder to remove the paint, and give the surface some tooth. I inverted the compressor to make the holed area almost horizontal. Used the slow-cure original JBW product. Spread some on, then stuck a small metal disc (actually a magnet) over the hole, then piled on more JBW over an area the size of a quarter. Left it to cure for several days. I'll set it up, give the oil time to drain back down, then start it up and see if it holds.

If not, it's off to the welder.

Results in a new days. Thanks for all the input.

Hydrostatic test.

Cheers! Rich

It went full pressure until the switch shut it off. Could not hear the leak until then. I'm confident it will be fine.

Since it's on a joint between the steel tank and (cast steel?) bung, I decided not to change anything by drilling, tapping, or even heat. This is a small hole, roughly a flat triangle, with less than 1/8" total area.

There is almost no chance of anyone being injured by your pressure tank. The leak you describe is not going to cause a catastrophic failure.

Dan

Do it. You have nothing to lose, and the manufacturer (or seller) may well replace the whole thing. Also, they need to know that things are slipping through their inspection process.

Joe Gwinn

Then the company sells the tank cheap to a second-hand dealer and we hear about it again from the next home-shop buyer.

That's how I got a 60 gallon Husky compressor for $75.